Le Clos de Saires

There is a secret part of France that most don’t get to experience. Of course, the French known for their impeccable elegance and style, and these are what most travelers see. We rush through on our ten-day jaunts and arrive back on the tarmac breathless, albeit impressed. But this doesn’t allow time to get to the heart of the French, and enjoy their greatest trait (yes, one that even exceeds their chicness!). And anyone who’s ever been a guest to a Frenchman knows that by far their greatest trait is their extraordinary charm and hospitality.

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But how can we get this added to our vacation? For those of us who don’t have a friend in France and can’t spend three-months warming up our French neighbor, is it hopeless? And what if we don’t want to choose, but still also want France’s elegance and style? Is there possibly a place where you could get all three?

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Yes. Le Clos de Saires, owned and operated by the spectacular Fabrice and Anne, is the culmination of all things wonderful about France. Enjoy a cuisine, cooked up by head chef Fabrice, that makes you close your eyes and mmm with every bite. Enjoy your rooms, decorated by Anne with the graceful style the French have perfected. And throughout the grounds, enjoy a charm that permeates every molecule, and soak up enough that you can carry it home with you.

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Le Clos de Saires is located in the lush French countryside. The accommodations range from safari tents to large apartments, and they’re the perfect answer for a couple getaway, family reunion or even wedding weekend. Surrounded by orchards, forests, and pastures, the grounds are cushioned from the stress of the world and exude a peace unfound in most corners. Watch your neighbors, gorgeous horses with their newborn fowls, gallop and play around their meadow. Sit under the flower-laden veranda while you sip grape concoctions famous from the region.

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If your family isn’t the sitting type, Le Clos de Saires is also ideally situated to highlight some of the best attractions in France. Be it mansion touring, nature watching, or wine tasting, you’re not far from a variety of activities to entertain and delight a range of preferences. But be sure to be back by mealtime so you can sit down to Fabrice’s table d’hôtel for yet another delicious feast.

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Fabrice learned to cook in his mother’s kitchen as soon as he was old enough to hold a whisk. What’s equally important as his skill is his love of cooking. And one of his favorite parts is sourcing all of his produce from the local farmers in the area. He knows exactly where to buy exactly what he needs. And he does all of this while making it look effortless, as only the French can. Anne and Fabrice seem genuinely confused when I press for more details on this process. Yes, of course we only buy fresh produce from local farmers. Yes, of course this is homemade made from scratch. Yes, of course my menu changes each day depending on the markets. After these questions, I was grateful they were the model hosts, so full of kindness and courtesy. Otherwise, they would’ve said “You barbaric American, yes we do things the right way! What other way is there?”

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Le Clos de Saires is a haven of everything wonderful about the French people. Anne and Fabrice have infused their property with elegance and charm, yet also warm and welcoming. Everything from their table to their linens shows a devotion to the highest standard that will never be compromised. And they themselves exude a kindness that immediately sets guests at ease and protects your vacation in a world of gracious hospitality. And once you’re back at home, you can draw strength, peace, and charm back into your world by remembering your time with Fabrice and Anne at the fabulous Le Clos de Saires.

Lake Nicaragua’s Secret Island

We pulled away from the dock in the colonial city of Granada, Nicaragua. Our wooden sailboat weaved between dozens of the rock islands, spouted from an angry Mombacho Volcano a millennia ago. A day cruise around Las Isletas is the typical tourist activity, but we were going deeper into Lake Nicaragua with two-days on Isla Zapatera. It’s the lake’s second biggest island and an acclaimed Pre-Columbian archeological site, though few make it to this national park. Zapatera has been owned by the Cordova Alvarez family, a political dynasty of six Nicaraguan presidents and dozens of leaders, for 166 years. But it’s slowly been opening up to travelers, with the help of Rafael. As great-grandson of the original owner from 1850 and someone who grew up coming to the island, he decided to build Hotel Bahia Zapatera as a means to preserve and share this special place. “Bienvenidos,” said Rafael with a big smile as we pulled up to the beach dotted with bungalows. “Let the adventure begin!”

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Built alongside the 100-year-old family home, the four-bungalow inn has traditional thatch-roofs, vibrant decor, and an incredible sense of the history. The “lobby” is decorated with black and white family photos, the calligraphy-scrolled deed to the land, and tons of Chorotega Indian artifacts. Rafael, pulled out a map to plot our two-days of excursions and it felt like we’re beginning a treasure hunt.

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Zapatera Island is an extinct volcano, weathered down to a 2,000-foot peak with rolling hills, valleys, and lagoons. We hiked down the ridge for a view over the surrounding archipelago then climbed down the crater walls to its lake. Rafael jumped in first, did a few kicks, and dove down for a handful of mud. “Want to try a Zapatera spa treatment?” We followed his lead and rubbed the silky mineral-rich earth all over our bodies and let it bake in the sun for 15 minutes (or until we were a few years younger).

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We returned to the hotel and there was a feast of fresh fish, crunchy patacones, and arroz con frijoles. For dessert, we had cinnamon and honey-infused plantains… sooo scrumptious.

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Just a ten-minute boat ride away is one of Lake Nicaragua’s most important archeological sites… Isla El Muerto. We pulled up to the sandy shores, expecting a little museum and ticket booth, but there was simple house and four brothers playing an intense game of baseball out front. We waved and followed the narrow dirt path to the Plazoleta. The 80×20-meter rock slab was covered in some of the most intricate petroglyphs we’d ever seen. Before the Spanish arrived in the 16th-century, the Chorotegas used the Plazoleta to chronical their history, track the sun and stars, and make sacrifices to the gods. Rafael, told us about the symbolism of the various carvings and stories of playing here as a child, filling the lines with chalk like a coloring book.

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We settled into our villa and positioned ourselves for a perfect sunset over Mombacho Volcano. When the Zapatera chefs heard we were on an eternal honeymoon, they surprised us with a special fish soup appetizer, sopa de amor.

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All born and raised on the island, the Zapatera staff were so sweet and took such amazing care of us. No request was too outlandish…like moving a table to end of the dock for the best breakfast spot. We dined on farm-fresh eggs and stacks of pancakes topped with pineapple, and sipped our coffee to the soundtrack of the lake’s breeze, birds, and waves.

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With cleverly designed island of hammocks hovering over the lake, we were lured in for a swim multiple times a day. The structure was the perfect perch for views, as well as an umbrella for shade below.

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For more activities, we could have chosen to hike to highest point of the island, take a dip in the river’s ojo de agua, or enjoy a boat ride to the Zapatera islets. We opted for a sail to Jesus Grande island for more petroglyphs, caves gripped with strangler figs, and a sunset toast to an amazing stay.

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There is something undeniably special about Zapatera. Maybe it’s the feeling of mysticism from the ancient cultures, the lore of the country’s leaders, or the warmth of the local Zapaterans…whatever it is, it’s authentic and a rare gem we hope you discover for yourself someday.