Most first time safari-goers head for the famous Maasai Mara or Serengeti, but for those in the know, Kenya’s Meru National Park is where the wild things are. One hundred and sixty miles north of Nairobi, the landscape is unlike any other with bright red cotton soil, the multi-branch doum palms, and 13 winding rivers that draw thousands of animals to its shores. Being an insider spot not only lends itself to fewer crowds, but more intimate accommodations, like the six-tent Offbeat Meru. We have so many favorite African safari camps from our HoneyTrek but when it comes down to good vibes and epic wildlife sightings, our love goes to Offbeat Meru.
From the staff to the design, there is no pretension at Offbeat. The charming manager team welcomed us into camp, as did the all the waving and smiling guests that were enjoying themselves in the pool. We continued on to the open air lobby for check-in, settled into the chic linen sofas, sipped a cold ginger beer, and had the feeling wash over us…this is going to be a great stay.
Built in the the true safari-tent style, each canvas and screen escape embraces the outdoors with just enough luxuries to make us feel like we weren’t vulnerable to the elements (or wildlife). Our king-size canopy bed and outdoor living room was like a hotel suite but the hot bucket shower and monkeys at our door reminded us this is what a safari camp is all about.
One thing we particularly loved about Offbeat was their choose-your-own-adventure approach to itineraries. In the mornings and evenings, game drives were always available but activities like walking safaris or fishing at the watering hole were also fantastic options. We took a walking safari our first night and when we saw the crew catching huge catfish, sipping Tusker lagers and having a grand old time on the river, we joined the fishing action the following night.
The next morning we got up before sunrise to watch the animals awake from their slumber and caught this fireball over the horizon of doum palms. The golden glow illuminating the gangling branches and red earth below was spectacular.
All the safari vehicles come equipped with traditional Maasai blankets to combat the morning chill. Our guide Bernard gave me the inside scoop on how to wear one like a local.
Bernard’s tracking skills always brought us to the front row of the action. We were driving along and suddenly he suddenly pulled into the bushes, and low and behold there was a male lion relaxing in the shade! I’m still not sure how he knew this, but his sixth sense never ceased to amaze.
For breakfast we picnicked at this lush watering hole filled to the brim with hippos. Instead of just hopping back in the car on a full stomach, we got to extend our stop at the river with a bit of fishing upstream. We caught four fish in a matter of minutes which added such fun to the morning and a whole new way to appreciate time in the savanna.
A family of the endemic Reticulated Giraffes whizzed past us. The way their spots are outlined makes them particularly beautiful, but like all giraffes they still have a funny gallop with those long necks and skinny legs.
After nearly three months traveling Africa we’d seen hundreds of elephants, but we’d never seen one with tusks as massive as these. These long swaths of ivory seemed to stretch for miles and slash through the air like swords. We certainly knew this was not the kind of pachyderm you’d want to mess with, but he gave us a mock charge and a few snorts just to make it extra clear.
Just when we thought we’d had the most eventful game drive, the most unbelievable sighting was yet to come! According to our East African wildlife field guide, the Beautiful Sand Snake has never been seen alive in Kenya…until it crawled right past our dining tent! The fearless assistant guide Mark saw it slither by and snatched it up before the moment was gone forever. This delicate, precious reptile seemed more legend than reality so in the name of science, the team held on to the snake until the specialists could come in to examine it. History was made and we are proud to say, we saw it first at Offbeat Meru!
Between game drives, we always found ourselves dipping into their cool, calming pool.
On our final morning we arrived at the park’s premier event….the Meru Rhino Sanctuary! Poaching is a serious problem in Africa so the the Kenya Wildlife Service has created large protected areas for these 67 rhinos to roam safely. To even see an endangered rhino chewing grass is exciting but we were lucky enough to catch the most incredible father-son moment. Watch this elder rhino school his young on how to use the horn to defend himself and his territory.
From unexpected picnics to fishing holes to pool-time, we love that Offbeat Safaris is about so much more than game drives. The wildlife is among the best in the country but it’s the remote and intimate nature of camp that makes this safari lodge one of Kenya’s best kept secrets.
Anne and Mike Howard are creators of the around-the-world honeymoon blog HoneyTrek.com and Trip Coaches for anyone looking to travel the world safely, affordably and off the beaten path. You can follow them on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter at @HoneyTrek.
Mike and Anne Howard left on their honeymoon in 2012 and have been traveling the world ever since. HoneyTrek.com chronicles their adventures across 7 continents, 44 countries, and counting! Their writing, photography, and the story of the “World’s Longest Honeymoon” can also be found on Condé Nast Traveler, BBC Travel, The Knot, Los Angeles Times, CBS, and dozens of other international publications. Connect with @HoneyTrek on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter.