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Sindabezi Island: Above and Beyond Victoria Falls

To soak up the world’s largest waterfall, the rush of the Zambezi river, and southern Zambia’s wild environs, we knew Sindabezi Island was the place to hang our bucket hat. This private river isle was gently developed by Tongabezi, the oldest and most prestigious eco-lodge above the falls, to further immerse its guests in the beauty of the Zambezi. Named by Fodor’s as one of the top ten eco-lodges on the African continent, Sindabezi is adventure at its most luxurious.

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There are only five villas on the island so each one feels completely secluded in nature. The existing landscape was their inspiration to their construction rather than an impediment. Their use of natural thatch roofs and mangrove walls barely scratch the surface of how they incorporate nature into their designs, but my favorite example is the pathways. A massive fallen tree laid right in the middle of walkway to our room but instead of chopping it up, they built a set of stairs up and over the trunk. Respect.

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As you can see, the entire front of our villa is open to the wilds of the Zambezi. From our bed we could watch the monkeys play in the trees, see the birds flutter from limb to limb, and hear the hippos honking nearby

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Each night at sunset the island’s ten guests gather by the fire for drinks and hors d’oeuvres. Chatting over wine in the comfort of our cushy sofas and chairs, before and after dinner, we were all great friends by the end of the night.

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The next day the Sindabezi team had planned a river and wildlife extravaganza for us. First up, a sunrise sail on the river. Watching kingfishers swooping through the air, baboons playing on the sandy banks, and hippos returning from their night of foraging, we sipped our coffee before heading back to the lodge for a hearty breakfast. Then before we knew it, we were back out on the river for a kayak and fishing trip where we caught a fierce tiger fish!

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Finishing our full morning on the river, we docked at one of the river islets for lunch. We would have been happy if our guide prepared a picnic blanket and sandwiches but to our amazement Sindabezi had sent a chef and waiter ahead to surprise us with a proper sit-down meal! A beautifully set table was prepared with multiple courses and wine pairings for an unforgettable dining experience.

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We returned to our villa and were excited for some time in our tub. Set under the shade and seclusion of the trees, the porcelain claw-foot tub was the most relaxing place to soak in the sounds of the river.

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After our bubble bath, we went to the lounge to relax with a cocktail before dinner. This central space is used to share bountiful meals or to curl up on the sofa with a book or a board game. The collection of antiques and thoughtful accents makes every space on the island a treat.

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The next day the main event was upon us: Victoria Falls. At 354-feet high with a single stream of water running 5, 604-feet wide, Victoria Falls is considered to be the largest waterfall in the world. Our Sindabezi guide gave us a very informative tour on the geology and history of the magnificent falls and then he handed us two rubber rain coats. The path opposite the falls turned out to be the world’s greatest natural water park! We giggled and squealed like school kids as we got more and more drenched catching glimpses of the cascades and rainbows.

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An extra perk of staying at Tongabezi and Sindabezi is that they have exclusive access to the legendary Livingstone Island, which literally sits on the edge of the falls with jaw- and stomach-dropping views. There only a handful of boat trips to the island each day but we absolutely recommend taking the last ride and high-tea session to catch the falls at sunset.

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What a stay! On our final morning, eating our breakfast of coconut-stuffed french toast and watching for hippos in the pools below, we thought to ourselves… “It doesn’t get more wild and luxurious than this.”

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Glamping with Gray Giants – Gorah Elephant Camp

Gorah Elephant Camp recaptures the romantic mystique of authentic safaris of centuries past. Gorah is steeped in history, tradition, and opulence. This exclusive safari tent experience brings you into the breathtaking natural world of Africa. Many adventurers before you have rated Gorah as an unforgettable five-star adventure. Glamping is new word for what safaris had already perfected.

“My discovery of this incredible place began in July 2002. Through my journey with her, I discovered that Gorah is the link between the enigmatic spiritual world that abounds in the wild; and the ancient song in our hearts that we silently ache for every day we are away from it.” – Nicola Schwim, South African game ranger and writer of the History of the Gorah.

Gorah Elephant Camp is a luxury tent camp, with an elegant manor house overlooking a waterhole teeming with wildlife. Sheltered under thatched canopies, Gorah’s 11 tented suites are luxurious and spacious, recalling the golden era of safari in the early 1900s. Each tent has a private deck offering a panoramic view of the endless Savannah plains. The posh interior of the tent is simple and authentic. Solar power lights the tent and turns the ceiling fans. The en-suite bathroom with vanity and shower is discreetly situated providing for complete privacy. Relax and unwind with a book on the comfy couch, or take an afternoon nap on the king-size bed.

Gorah Elephant Camp Tent Suite InsidePhoto: Gorah website

The Gorah House retains its historic magnificence and imparts a magical dining experience. Great attention to detail was given in creating Gorah’s dining experience. Warm fires and paraffin lanterns set the mood for a delicious meal while the open veranda invites the evening breeze. Wines are carefully chosen to enhance and elevate the meal and, to top it off, there is a grand selection of decadent desserts.

The 5,000 hectare private concession of the camp is located deep in the heart of the Addo Elephant National Park. Addo is home to the densest population of elephants on earth. Today these gentle gray giants are safe to roam in peace. Here, you can experience the thrill of quietly watching a herd stroll by. Gorah is also home to the Big Five Game that is touted about in all safari experiences. In case you’re not already in the know, the “Big 5” are the lion, elephant, cape buffalo, leopard, and rhinoceros. Addo is an incredible ecosystem from the large to the small. Watch your feet, you’ll probably see a dung beetle rolling by with its prize.

People have been living and visiting the land of Gorah for an estimated 250,000 years. The indigenous tribes relied on the water known as ‘de Goras’ or natural spring, and created a sense of place and spiritual presence to the area. Colonial settlers moved in, changing the landscape and the history, while the characters played out the drama. There was love, sorrow, and tragedy here, but above all, the peace and guardianship lived on and never changed. The gracious Gorah Manor House, a National Monument built in 1856, is now immaculately restored and period furnished. Gorah Elephant Camp has actively dedicated itself to the conservation of the Addo National Park.

Gorah Elephant Camp Manor HousePhoto: Gorah website

Gorah is a year-round destination. During the summer months from September to April the weather is warm to hot with wonderful balmy evenings. Temperatures can fluctuate from 25ºC – 35ºC in the daytime and there is a chance of rain. The winter is chilly at night and early in the mornings but the daytime temperatures can be pleasantly warm. Every now and then a cold front does pass over the lodge at which time daytime temperatures can be slightly cooler.  Games drives at Gorah are expertly led by passionate and professional guides and are a testament to the noble safaris of old. They intrepidly search the vast terrain for animals; this is the essence of the experience. Excitement lingers long after arriving back at camp from seeing elephant, rhino, and lion in their natural habitat.

See more of what Gorah has to offer by visiting the Gorah Elephant Camp website.

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African Safari Glamping at Sand Rivers Selous in Tanzania

Sand Rivers Selous is a secluded lodge in the Selous Game Reserve offering a view of the majestic curve of the Rufiji River. From its veranda, you can take in the magnificent sunset and the relaxing ambiance of the surrounding wildlife. The beauty of this glamping lodge was first made famous by Richard Bonham in 1984 who used this area of the Selous for his famous portered walking safaris, when the area was all but unknown.

Sand Rivers is set on a rocky peninsula with magnificent views over a vast sweep of the Rufiji River, its exposed sandbanks home to hippo, crocodile, and spectacular bird life. There are eight large and airy double, or twin-bedded cottages, each with its own spacious bathroom with flush toilets and powerful showers. Beds are four-postered with soft mosquito netting that ties back during the day. Each cottage is completely open-fronted, with an expansive veranda set on stilts, giving each a stunning and private view over the river. Electric lights, standing fans, and water heaters are solar powered.

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Enjoy a large open bar and dining area. There is also a swimming pool shaded by an ancient baobab tree on the banks of the river, in which you can cool off in the heat of the day. An unusual combination of steep wooded hills, open miombo woodland, grassy plains, and marshes interlaced with lakes and dry sand rivers, this scenic area boasts an impressive variety of game, bird life, and wild flowers.

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The main dining table in the central mess area is made of an enormous tree that was washed down the river by a storm and is the focus for lunch and dinner. Breakfast is generally a relaxed affair with guests either eating in the lodge or having a bush breakfast under the shade of a tree.

Outside the central mess area is the swimming pool, set into the rocks on the river’s edge, and shaded by an ancient baobab tree thought to be more than 1,500 years old. This is the perfect place for relaxing and gazing out over the view of endless water. Armchairs and sofas abound, and the bar is close by, along with a library well-stocked with books on the area.