Le Clos de Saires

There is a secret part of France that most don’t get to experience. Of course, the French known for their impeccable elegance and style, and these are what most travelers see. We rush through on our ten-day jaunts and arrive back on the tarmac breathless, albeit impressed. But this doesn’t allow time to get to the heart of the French, and enjoy their greatest trait (yes, one that even exceeds their chicness!). And anyone who’s ever been a guest to a Frenchman knows that by far their greatest trait is their extraordinary charm and hospitality.

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But how can we get this added to our vacation? For those of us who don’t have a friend in France and can’t spend three-months warming up our French neighbor, is it hopeless? And what if we don’t want to choose, but still also want France’s elegance and style? Is there possibly a place where you could get all three?

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Yes. Le Clos de Saires, owned and operated by the spectacular Fabrice and Anne, is the culmination of all things wonderful about France. Enjoy a cuisine, cooked up by head chef Fabrice, that makes you close your eyes and mmm with every bite. Enjoy your rooms, decorated by Anne with the graceful style the French have perfected. And throughout the grounds, enjoy a charm that permeates every molecule, and soak up enough that you can carry it home with you.

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Le Clos de Saires is located in the lush French countryside. The accommodations range from safari tents to large apartments, and they’re the perfect answer for a couple getaway, family reunion or even wedding weekend. Surrounded by orchards, forests, and pastures, the grounds are cushioned from the stress of the world and exude a peace unfound in most corners. Watch your neighbors, gorgeous horses with their newborn fowls, gallop and play around their meadow. Sit under the flower-laden veranda while you sip grape concoctions famous from the region.

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If your family isn’t the sitting type, Le Clos de Saires is also ideally situated to highlight some of the best attractions in France. Be it mansion touring, nature watching, or wine tasting, you’re not far from a variety of activities to entertain and delight a range of preferences. But be sure to be back by mealtime so you can sit down to Fabrice’s table d’hôtel for yet another delicious feast.

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Fabrice learned to cook in his mother’s kitchen as soon as he was old enough to hold a whisk. What’s equally important as his skill is his love of cooking. And one of his favorite parts is sourcing all of his produce from the local farmers in the area. He knows exactly where to buy exactly what he needs. And he does all of this while making it look effortless, as only the French can. Anne and Fabrice seem genuinely confused when I press for more details on this process. Yes, of course we only buy fresh produce from local farmers. Yes, of course this is homemade made from scratch. Yes, of course my menu changes each day depending on the markets. After these questions, I was grateful they were the model hosts, so full of kindness and courtesy. Otherwise, they would’ve said “You barbaric American, yes we do things the right way! What other way is there?”

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Le Clos de Saires is a haven of everything wonderful about the French people. Anne and Fabrice have infused their property with elegance and charm, yet also warm and welcoming. Everything from their table to their linens shows a devotion to the highest standard that will never be compromised. And they themselves exude a kindness that immediately sets guests at ease and protects your vacation in a world of gracious hospitality. And once you’re back at home, you can draw strength, peace, and charm back into your world by remembering your time with Fabrice and Anne at the fabulous Le Clos de Saires.

Lake Nicaragua’s Secret Island

We pulled away from the dock in the colonial city of Granada, Nicaragua. Our wooden sailboat weaved between dozens of the rock islands, spouted from an angry Mombacho Volcano a millennia ago. A day cruise around Las Isletas is the typical tourist activity, but we were going deeper into Lake Nicaragua with two-days on Isla Zapatera. It’s the lake’s second biggest island and an acclaimed Pre-Columbian archeological site, though few make it to this national park. Zapatera has been owned by the Cordova Alvarez family, a political dynasty of six Nicaraguan presidents and dozens of leaders, for 166 years. But it’s slowly been opening up to travelers, with the help of Rafael. As great-grandson of the original owner from 1850 and someone who grew up coming to the island, he decided to build Hotel Bahia Zapatera as a means to preserve and share this special place. “Bienvenidos,” said Rafael with a big smile as we pulled up to the beach dotted with bungalows. “Let the adventure begin!”

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Built alongside the 100-year-old family home, the four-bungalow inn has traditional thatch-roofs, vibrant decor, and an incredible sense of the history. The “lobby” is decorated with black and white family photos, the calligraphy-scrolled deed to the land, and tons of Chorotega Indian artifacts. Rafael, pulled out a map to plot our two-days of excursions and it felt like we’re beginning a treasure hunt.

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Zapatera Island is an extinct volcano, weathered down to a 2,000-foot peak with rolling hills, valleys, and lagoons. We hiked down the ridge for a view over the surrounding archipelago then climbed down the crater walls to its lake. Rafael jumped in first, did a few kicks, and dove down for a handful of mud. “Want to try a Zapatera spa treatment?” We followed his lead and rubbed the silky mineral-rich earth all over our bodies and let it bake in the sun for 15 minutes (or until we were a few years younger).

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We returned to the hotel and there was a feast of fresh fish, crunchy patacones, and arroz con frijoles. For dessert, we had cinnamon and honey-infused plantains… sooo scrumptious.

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Just a ten-minute boat ride away is one of Lake Nicaragua’s most important archeological sites… Isla El Muerto. We pulled up to the sandy shores, expecting a little museum and ticket booth, but there was simple house and four brothers playing an intense game of baseball out front. We waved and followed the narrow dirt path to the Plazoleta. The 80×20-meter rock slab was covered in some of the most intricate petroglyphs we’d ever seen. Before the Spanish arrived in the 16th-century, the Chorotegas used the Plazoleta to chronical their history, track the sun and stars, and make sacrifices to the gods. Rafael, told us about the symbolism of the various carvings and stories of playing here as a child, filling the lines with chalk like a coloring book.

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We settled into our villa and positioned ourselves for a perfect sunset over Mombacho Volcano. When the Zapatera chefs heard we were on an eternal honeymoon, they surprised us with a special fish soup appetizer, sopa de amor.

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All born and raised on the island, the Zapatera staff were so sweet and took such amazing care of us. No request was too outlandish…like moving a table to end of the dock for the best breakfast spot. We dined on farm-fresh eggs and stacks of pancakes topped with pineapple, and sipped our coffee to the soundtrack of the lake’s breeze, birds, and waves.

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With cleverly designed island of hammocks hovering over the lake, we were lured in for a swim multiple times a day. The structure was the perfect perch for views, as well as an umbrella for shade below.

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For more activities, we could have chosen to hike to highest point of the island, take a dip in the river’s ojo de agua, or enjoy a boat ride to the Zapatera islets. We opted for a sail to Jesus Grande island for more petroglyphs, caves gripped with strangler figs, and a sunset toast to an amazing stay.

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There is something undeniably special about Zapatera. Maybe it’s the feeling of mysticism from the ancient cultures, the lore of the country’s leaders, or the warmth of the local Zapaterans…whatever it is, it’s authentic and a rare gem we hope you discover for yourself someday.

Niagara Falls to the Finger Lakes – A road trip inspired by waterfalls and the wine country

A road trip is always a good idea, especially when you’re in search of stunning natural scenery and that’s exactly what my friend and I had in mind when we set out on our adventure from the Niagara Falls to the Finger Lakes. The route features some of the most breath-taking waterfalls and best wineries in North America.

Niagara Falls

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The starting point of our road trip inspired by waterfalls and wine was Niagara Falls, Ontario. The city of Niagara Falls is famous for its rich history, fascinating cultural heritage, and of course the Niagara Falls. We were lucky to catch a spectacular fireworks display over the Niagara Falls on the evening of our arrival. The fireworks only run on Sunday, Wednesday and Friday between May and October.

After a good night sleep we had scheduled another visit to the falls, this time during the day. Seeing the falls lit up at night is pretty, but you can’t appreciate the full extent of its natural beauty until you have visited the falls in the daylight.

After the most scenic border crossing with picturesque views of the Niagara Falls we headed to Niagara Falls airport with a local bus to pick up our rental car. We were a little surprised to see the deserted looking airport when we arrived. It looked like no plane had landed there in days. Once we located the rental car booth we found a note informing us that all customers wishing to pick up their rental car must do so from a different location. That’s something the online booking site had not told us. A friendly security guard then tried to arrange a taxi for us to ensure that we can pick up the car before the shop closes, but even that was unsuccessful. Luckily we managed to catch a bus in time to get our road trip started.

Finger Lakes Region

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An hour later than expected we were heading towards the stunning Finger Lakes region, that got its name from the 11 North-South lakes that reminded early map makers of fingers. I had really wanted to make it in time to see the sunset over Lake Cayuga, but twilight was fast approaching and we suddenly found ourselves surrounded by deer. We had been warned that this route is known for its high deer population and drivers are always advised to take it steady. Thankfully none of them seemed too disturbed by our presence and continued eating as we drove past. I noticed the sun’s reflection on water in the distance. Were we this close to the lakes already? We took a right to drive down to the water and stopped just in time to see the last pastel-coloured clouds disappear and make way to the darkness.

Firelight Camps

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After four hours of driving and enjoying the beautiful natural scenery of New York State we arrived at the Firelight Camps, a fairy-tale-like glamping resort where you can feast on some of the best wines and fresh food the region has to offer.

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We had a wonderful relaxing night by the fire sampling some delicious regional wines and spent the night in style in one of their tastefully decorated tents.

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The beds are so comfortable that getting up in the morning isn’t easy, but follow the smell of the coffee and you will be rewarded. The complimentary breakfast is an oasis for any travelling foodie and a great way to start a day of exploring the region.

Cider House

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While the area is known for the award-winning wines, it is also home to cider producers and craft breweries. After having tried some regional wines the previous night, I could not wait to find out a little more about the cider production in the region.

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The Cider House is located in Interlaken, along the Cayuga Lake and they offer various tasting options of some of the best local ciders. We chose to share the 5 for $5 option as we still had quite a bit of driving ahead of us. The most impressive part of the tasting was the Ice Cider which is typical for the region and is made from the juice of frozen apples.

The Waterfalls

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All across the region you can find a spectacular range of mesmerising waterfalls.

The Buttermilk Falls are located just outside of Ithaca and were the first stop of our waterfall adventure. We opted to leave the car in Ithaca and walk to the falls. Alternatively you can reach the falls on foot by following the hiking trail that starts near the Firelight Camps.

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Next on our itinerary were the scenic Taughannock Falls, one of the tallest in the Finger Lakes region. We followed the signs for the overlook for a quick picture stop, but you can also wander along on the trails overlooking the beautiful landscape and the falls.

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We finished our day of chasing waterfalls with a visit to the Lower Falls in the Robert H. Treman State Park. They’re easy to reach from the lower parking lot and we were rewarded with beautifully shaped falls and a swimming area, perfect for a refreshing stop. Unfortunately swimming is only permitted with a life guard present, which meant we couldn’t take a dive.