Sindabezi Island: Above and Beyond Victoria Falls

To soak up the world’s largest waterfall, the rush of the Zambezi river, and southern Zambia’s wild environs, we knew Sindabezi Island was the place to hang our bucket hat. This private river isle was gently developed by Tongabezi, the oldest and most prestigious eco-lodge above the falls, to further immerse its guests in the beauty of the Zambezi. Named by Fodor’s as one of the top ten eco-lodges on the African continent, Sindabezi is adventure at its most luxurious.

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There are only five villas on the island so each one feels completely secluded in nature. The existing landscape was their inspiration to their construction rather than an impediment. Their use of natural thatch roofs and mangrove walls barely scratch the surface of how they incorporate nature into their designs, but my favorite example is the pathways. A massive fallen tree laid right in the middle of walkway to our room but instead of chopping it up, they built a set of stairs up and over the trunk. Respect.

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As you can see, the entire front of our villa is open to the wilds of the Zambezi. From our bed we could watch the monkeys play in the trees, see the birds flutter from limb to limb, and hear the hippos honking nearby

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Each night at sunset the island’s ten guests gather by the fire for drinks and hors d’oeuvres. Chatting over wine in the comfort of our cushy sofas and chairs, before and after dinner, we were all great friends by the end of the night.

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The next day the Sindabezi team had planned a river and wildlife extravaganza for us. First up, a sunrise sail on the river. Watching kingfishers swooping through the air, baboons playing on the sandy banks, and hippos returning from their night of foraging, we sipped our coffee before heading back to the lodge for a hearty breakfast. Then before we knew it, we were back out on the river for a kayak and fishing trip where we caught a fierce tiger fish!

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Finishing our full morning on the river, we docked at one of the river islets for lunch. We would have been happy if our guide prepared a picnic blanket and sandwiches but to our amazement Sindabezi had sent a chef and waiter ahead to surprise us with a proper sit-down meal! A beautifully set table was prepared with multiple courses and wine pairings for an unforgettable dining experience.

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We returned to our villa and were excited for some time in our tub. Set under the shade and seclusion of the trees, the porcelain claw-foot tub was the most relaxing place to soak in the sounds of the river.

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After our bubble bath, we went to the lounge to relax with a cocktail before dinner. This central space is used to share bountiful meals or to curl up on the sofa with a book or a board game. The collection of antiques and thoughtful accents makes every space on the island a treat.

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The next day the main event was upon us: Victoria Falls. At 354-feet high with a single stream of water running 5, 604-feet wide, Victoria Falls is considered to be the largest waterfall in the world. Our Sindabezi guide gave us a very informative tour on the geology and history of the magnificent falls and then he handed us two rubber rain coats. The path opposite the falls turned out to be the world’s greatest natural water park! We giggled and squealed like school kids as we got more and more drenched catching glimpses of the cascades and rainbows.

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An extra perk of staying at Tongabezi and Sindabezi is that they have exclusive access to the legendary Livingstone Island, which literally sits on the edge of the falls with jaw- and stomach-dropping views. There only a handful of boat trips to the island each day but we absolutely recommend taking the last ride and high-tea session to catch the falls at sunset.

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What a stay! On our final morning, eating our breakfast of coconut-stuffed french toast and watching for hippos in the pools below, we thought to ourselves… “It doesn’t get more wild and luxurious than this.”

Legend Lodges Safari Camps in Waterburg, South Africa

Unaware of what it really meant at the time, I first went glamping on a trip to South Africa back in 1992.  We were up in the Sabi Sand at a private game reserve called Kirkman’s Camp.  It was quite a memorable experience since I left the U.S. single and returned engaged. I proposed during sundowners of the first safari my now wife and I ever went on.

We’ve been on dozens of game drives since, but certainly none as significant as that one.  Yet each one is special in it’s own right.  And it’s not always because of the wildlife that you see (or don’t see).  There’s simply something incredibly alluring about being in the African bush that keeps you coming back.

So when I received an invitation to speak at a travel conference in Johannesburg last month, I gladly accepted – just as long as I could extend the trip and return to the South African savannah I love so much.

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Now that I’m quite familiar with the term and have done my share of glamping both in and outside of Africa, I specifically looked for locations that not only offered high-quality game viewing, but tented accommodations that would bring me that much closer to the environment in which these animals roam.  The Legends Lodges, situated in the Entabeni Safari Conservancy within the World Heritage “Waterberg Biosphere” wound up easily fitting the bill.  Not only do it offer the opportunity to see the “Big Five”, they were less than a three-hour drive north of Johannesburg and in a malaria-free zone, which meant I didn’t have to deal with any anti-malaria medication.

Another reason I chose Legends was because it offered much more than just safari activities.

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Besides its diversity of wildlife, world-class wines, culturally rich cities, and historic past, South Africa is also world-renowned for its golf. The Legend Golf & Safari Resort has a one-of-a-kind championship golf course designed by eighteen of the world’s top golfers.  Set within the 22,000 hectare Entabeni Safari Conservancy, the course winds its way directly through the open grasslands and dense bush of the park.  During the round that I played, I literally hit a tee-shoot into a heard of gemsbok and later, had to steer my golf cart around grazing zebra.  Pretty cool.  Best of all, the pristine bushveld environment has been preserved and the course remains one of the most environmentally sensitive in Africa.

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The Resort also includes privately owned homes, a hotel, recreational facilities, a wellness center, a “Field of Legends” sports complex and a multi-functional conference facility.  But I came here primarily to see the animals, so after my round of golf and fancy dining, I headed straight into the bush to completely immerse myself in the beauty of these natural surroundings.

The Entabeni Conservancy has four distinctly unique bush camps situated in the midst of the reserve, so visits by lions and other predators is an expected and accepted part of the experience. This reserve is also one of those places where you do not need to search for animals, as plains game is plentiful and diverse, with at least 15 different antelope species, more than 55 large mammal species, 300 flowers, 50 grasses, 140 trees, 380 birds and innumerable insects, reptiles and amphibians.  And thanks to the highly trained rangers, there’s even a chance of seeing the Big Five up-close.

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Meanwhile, the Conservancy is separated into an upper and lower escarpment.  The upper, which offers majestic craggy rock formations and wide open grass plains, sits atop 1800 foot high cliffs.  There you will find three of the five camps.   Kingfisher and Lakeside Lodge, each sitting on the banks of Lake Entabeni, offer guests an intimate and tranquil setting that is nature at its undisturbed best.  Ravineside Lodge, located under the shadow of Entabeni Mountain, is made of thatch and stone and is built on stilts hugging the cliff’s edge.  It offers spectacular views of unspoilt ravines and wooded hillsides. Visitors can take advantage of the observatory and listen to a professional astronomer explain the mystery and vast beauty of the southern night sky.

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The lower escarpment is about three degrees warmer and is comprised mainly of sandy wetlands.  That’s where you’ll find the Hanglip and Wildside Safari Camps.

Hanglip, which evokes the romantic Africa of yesteryear, has ten luxury suites, each furnished in an African Baroque style, with private sun decks and breathtaking views across the wetlands and vast open plains.  Guests can choose to go on game drives or guided bush walks.  They can even opt for a horseback safari if they so choose. A wine cellar can also be rented out for the night to celebrate a special occasion.

I opted to stay at the Wildside Safari Camp, since that’s where they featured the en-suite glamping tents.  The camp itself captured the essence of the unspoiled wilderness of the Waterberg region perfectly.  The tents, which are permanently set to a wooden foundation and come in two or four-person “sizes”, are covered with a thatched roof and have fully functioning bathrooms (with semi-outdoor showers), very comfortable beds, a fridge, tea and coffee makers, and a small writing table to fill out the space.

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But as alluring as the tents were, I found the pool to be a nice place to chill out and escape the heat of the afternoon sun.  After the evening game drive, the open lounge/bar area and the roaring fire in the boma created the perfect end to yet another relaxed and memorable day in the bush.

Glamping News: Glamorous Camping in Shantytowns

One of the top news stories this week that had nothing to do with glamping was the announcement that Stephen Colbert would be taking over for David Letterman when he retires from “Late Night” sometime in 2015.

If you’re an avid viewer of his late night satirical television program on Comedy Central, The Colbert Report, perhaps you remember the November 12, 2013 episode that aired a bit on Shantytown Glamour Camping.  In the piece, Colbert describes the latest exotic hybrid that combines luxury with ‘roughing it’: Shanty Town, a lodging option available at the Emoya Hotel & Spa in Bloemfontein, South Africa.

“Shanty Town is modeled after the ramshackle hovels of South Africa’s townships.  Now,” the comedian explains, “you can bring the whole family to stay in an authentic corrugated tin shack, each with it’s own black smoke spewing barrel fire, beef tallow candle, and squatter’s kitchen.”  How goes on to joke, “it’s like staying at a Sandal’s Resort . . . if the sandals where made from old tire.”

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In reality, you certainly wouldn’t categorize this form of accommodation as “glamping”.  It’s more like “Glamour Slumming”, or “Glumming” teases Colbert.  All kidding aside, however, the sad truth is that millions of South African’s live in these settlements across the country.  These shantytowns typically consist of homes constructed of old corrugated iron sheets or waterproof material that act mainly as shelters from the elements.  Since they typically don’t have electricity, you’ll find paraffin lamps, candles, a battery operated radio, an outside toilet (also referred to as a long drop) and a drum for the fire they use to cook with.

In Shanty Town, guests can experience staying in one of these crude accommodations within the safe environment because it’s not actually located within a real shantytown or township.  Instead, it’s found within of a private game reserve, complete with under-floor heating and wireless internet access!  The website even promotes the fact that Shanty Town can accommodate 52 people and is ideal for team building, fancy theme parties, and braais (South African barbeques).

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If “glumming” is something that might seriously interests you, there is another option that’s much more genuine because it’s found in a “real” shantytown.  Within South Africa’s most famous township, Soweto, you can arrange an overnight stay with one of several hosts that will put you up for the night.  Arrangements can be made by visiting www.sowetotownshiptours.com and inquiring about a home stay.

One such opportunity can be found in Motsoaledi, where visitors are offered overnight housing right smack in the middle of a shantytown.  Beware that there is no climate control, but the bed looks comfortable and the hostess (together with her 4 year-old daughter) are very hospitable.  One night stay will cost you ZAR 80, or about $8.00.  For ZAR 150, or $15, you can have breakfast in the morning, which includes fat cakes with polony (an African sausage) and achaar (a spicy salad made of mango and oil).

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So why would someone want to venture into a shantytown and sleep in a tin shack?  Tours of Soweto have become big business ever since Nelson Mandela was released from prison and Apartheid was dismantled in 1994.  Tourists are eager to see Nelson Mandela’s home, where some of the infamous riots took place, and what shantytowns look like up close.  And for those who really want a richer experience and deeper understanding of life in Soweto, “glumming”, just like glamping, serves as yet another unique form of getting visitors that much closer to the places they travel to.