Glamping Review: Sabuk Lodge, Laikipia, Kenya

The classic safari in Kenya, at least for first-timers, usually involves going to Maasai Mara National Park, where one of many safari vehicles brings a group of camera-toting tourists on game drives in search of Africa’s Big Five. However, this southwestern Kenyan park of the Serengeti plains isn’t the only destination in the country; about 150 miles north of capital Nairobi is the Laikipia Plateau, the less frequented “high country” in central Kenya, which was an entirely different experience for me — particularly during my time at the independently-run Sabuk Lodge.

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For instance, on one morning game drive, I found myself not in the seat of a Land Cruiser, but on the hump of a camel. Verity Williams and her staff at Sabuk Lodge pride themselves on their camel safari — a greener, more intimate, and undoubtedly quieter experience than being in a gas-powered vehicle. My group and I journeyed across the semi-arid plateau, and it was like being in a caravan of ancient times, except for the brief moment we temporarily dismounted the fleshy mounds to go on foot, when we encountered a herd of elephants at a nearby watering hole. (I was told that a group of domesticated camels carrying passengers usually freaks the wild pachyderms out, and we cautiously toned down our presence.)

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However, going on foot was also a part of the privilege of being there. Because the lodge is on a private, unfenced conservation area — not in a national park — there’s much more freedom to roam and be a part of the environment. This didn’t mean we were sitting ducks out there for predators on the prowl. Every time I journeyed out in the bush with my group — may it have been on a wildlife hike or a stroll to a sundowner with a spectacular view — I was always in the good hands of a guide or a rifleman who kept watch of any threat in the distance.

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However, I wasn’t obsessing about any of the potential dangers in the wild when I was out there; the beauty of the landscape was way too distracting for that. The grand panorama of amber grasslands stretched out to the horizon whenever I gazed out from the vantage point of my room in the cliffside lodge. Each quarters is its own viewing deck, like a diorama made of natural elements, in that one side of the room is open, allowing for unobstructed views of the plateau and the nearby Ewaso Nyiro River below — even when waking up comfortably in bed. The views from some rooms are so inspiring; they’ve encouraged several marriage proposals.

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For me, the scenery was definitely Sabuk Lodge’s biggest selling point, one they’ve capitalized on for years. However, as a traveler curious about social responsibility, it was good to hear that they also contribute back to the local society they’ve become a part of. Most of Ms. Williams’ staff come from the local Samburu and Laikipiak Maasai tribes, and they’re very much involved with helping develop the community. In fact, they recently built a dormitory for the local school.

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Visiting these Maasai communities was a highlight of my trip. I’ll admit I was a little cynical before going there, having been conditioned to believe a visit to a dancing Maasai tribe is “touristy” — akin to a hotel culture show. However, once I visited the actual villages where the locals live, I realized I was having an authentic glimpse of central Kenya. Talking with school children in their classrooms was inspiring. And when several of the tribespeople inevitably demonstrated their Maasai dance in colorful garb, it felt less like they were “on stage.”

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Many people who visit Kenya do it for their “once in a lifetime” trip, never to go back after that one safari in the Maasai Mara. However, for those who can’t get enough of Kenya, Sabuk Lodge in the less-crowded Laikipia Plateau — with its awe-inspiring views and experiences — is one option that’s well worth visiting — or revisiting.

Photo Credit: Erik Trinidad

Glamping.com listed properties among top winners of Safari Awards 2015

Each year over 4,000 qualified tour operators, travel agents and travel journalists from around the world vote to nominate the best safari camps, lodges, houses, mobile and riding operators, and wildlife organizations for the Safari Awards. A team of 14 judges said to be “the most highly-respected, knowledgeable independent tour operators selling safaris,” then decides who among those nominees are the best in several categories.

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The big story this year is Norman Carr Walking Safaris, which took the highest honor- “Best Safari Experience in Africa,” as well as “Best Walking Safari” in the 2015 Safari Awards. “The legacy and the history of the company really stand out,” says Sales and Marketing Director Mindy Roberts. Founded by Norman Carr who pioneered the walking safari 64 years ago, she calls him “a man with a vision way beyond his time.” She especially attributes the award honors to the guides. “Our guiding team from Mfuwe… we think are some of the best in Africa.”

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Known as the “original safari company,” Norman Carr started walking safaris more than 60 years ago in the Luangwa Valley, and today their properties include four bush camps, Kapani Lodge a luxury camp along the Luangwa River, four of which are listed on Glamping.com.

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Luwi Bush Camp, a Norman Carr Safaris property listed on Glamping.com, is one of several camps included in the Norman Carr Walking Safari that was named “Best Safari Experience” and “Best Walking Safari.”

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Kakuli Bush Camp is also one of the winning properties featured on Glamping.com.

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Down the Luangwa River from the bush camps is Chinzombo, winner of “Best New Safari Property” and runner up of “Best Safari Cuisine”. It was the original green season base for Norman Carr in the 1970s, now a “super luxurious” camp that “retains its bush feel,” according to Norman Carr Safaris.

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“Best Safari Spa/Retreat” goes to Sasaab in Kenya, the spa is known as “Spasaab,” uncommon for being “purpose built into the rocks” and said to have “impressive views and tranquil sounds of birds and the river.”

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Kudos to Kenya’s Lewa Safari Camp and the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy (also known as Lewa Downs) for winning “Best Wildlife Conservancy Organization,” as well as “Personal Contribution Wildlife” award given to Ian Craig, Lewa Wildlife Conservancy & NRT (Northern Rangelands Trust).

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A safari experience offered by Ker & Downey Botswana was also an award recipient. The Botswana walking safari “Footsteps Across the Delta” was a winner of “Best Ecologically Responsible” and “Best Family Safari Experience”.

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The awards come at a good time for the tourism industry, with overreaching concerns over the spread of Ebola, considering that the award-winning resorts are approximately 5000 miles from the hot zone in Western Africa. That’s literally like being afraid to visit Miami because of an outbreak in Anchorage, Alaska. Congratulations to these and all the winners of the 2015 Safari Awards.