Cruising on Yathra and exploring Kurulubedda : Jetwing’s Eco-Retreats

As I seek the horizon on Bentota River, a sense of unperturbed relaxation takes over me. I hear and see no one; the falling rain and a sparse flutter of leaves are my only companions.

I arrived on a rainy afternoon from Galle, to a silent Dedduwa boat house, Yathra by Jetwing. No one was expecting me, although they should have. It was in fact, best. I took to myself to intrude; I walked down the graveled path, out onto a murky garden of sorts and there she was, pastoral and gracious, the Yathra by Jetwing, anchored by the riverbank.

Jetwing Yathra Boat

I came a long way to see the first of its kind houseboat in Sri Lanka. Inspired by the Kerala waters (more specifically, the Indian Kettuvallan), the island’s inaugural floating hotel appeared to be as peaceful as I had expected it to be.

Simply crafted from bamboo, with wooden, thatched roof, the houseboat is at the same time, a green, rustic vision of elegance, thanks to the craftsmanship of environmental architect Sunela Jayewardene.

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Featuring two air-conditioned bedrooms complete with their own private balconies and enclosed bathrooms, the boat includes most amenities you may need or find in an otherwise high-end hotel (slippers, robes, hair drier, iron, toiletries, etc). Ok, no Jacuzzi! But who needs a Jacuzzi when you’re leisurely cruising the river?

A soft, nautical interior design can be noticed in the bedrooms as well as the entrance parlor that links the rooms: vintage chests, navy blues and seashell motifs.

I walk up and down the teak-wood floors and notice the deck aft, used for dining. Guests can enjoy their meals here, in the open towards the lake, as service is provided via the galley adjoining the after deck.

There is also a sun deck above the cabins for guests to enjoy.

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Under the direction of Captain Koralage, retired from the Sri Lankan Navy after 22 years, the cruise is set to traverse the calm Bentota River starting from Yathra by Jetwing, all the way to Awittewa, a small village some 11 miles away.

Similarly, an escape to Jetwing Kurulubedda is an eco retreat in itself. Concealed amidst the foliage of a wild environment, near the village of Mahamodera on the Southern Coast, you’ll surely feel in your very own secret forest.

Jetwing Kurulubedda Private Dwelling

Rustic in appearance, each of the two villas at Jetwing Kurulubedda has been aesthetically built and adorned so as to perfectly blend in with the surrounding paddy fields. The facilities however, are completely modern, to fittingly accommodate its guests.

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A stay at Jetwing Kurulubedda is clearly best suited for couples that wish for absolute tranquility. Each of the two dwellings cloistered into the woods opens to a large terrace and furthermore onto a canopy of trees. There is also a private plunge pool at the base of each one.

And that’s not the best part. Whether you want to dine on your own terrace, or further down into the coppice, the chef will be there at your disposal: with the dinner of your request, where and when you desire.

Jetwing Kurulubedda Dawn

Given the success of the property and authenticity of the experience, Jetwing Kurulubedda has plans to expand to four dwellings total, as well as another pool.

Although I didn’t stay the night, I thoroughly enjoyed the silence, disturbed only by the sound of crickets and birds.

I visited the Yathra by Jetwing houseboat in early May, ahead of its inauguration. This review is based on my brief visit on property. Guests can now book various packages, to include roam and board, as well as cruises. For rates and availability, please visit their listing pages, here on Glamping.com.

Image Credits: Jetwing Kurulubedda, Yathra by Jetwing, Monica Suma

The Jewel of the Swahili Coast: Kinondo Kwetu

Kinondo Kwetu is one of those places where the moment you leave, you are already planning your return. You walk into the main space of this former Kenyan home with its soaring thatch ceiling, African chic furnishings, and white curtains billowing from the ocean breeze, and you exhale. In Swahili, Kinondo Kwetu means “home away from home,” and when you feel a wave of calm as you soak in their 13 acres of gardens, beach, forest, and villas decorated to perfection…you’ll know how it got its name.

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About an hour south of Mombasa, this ultra-chic glamping destination is set in the beautiful and fascinating cove of Diani Beach. The turquoise tides change dramatically throughout the day but as they recede, members of the local Digo tribe often come out to pay homage to this sacred rock. Paper prayers are left in its crevices and cast out to sea when the spirit moves them.

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The series of cottages and villas are built from coral rock, plaster, and macuti thatch with plenty of ocean-view windows. We stayed on the top floor of this double-decker beauty but a group or family could quite happily rent the entire cottage.

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When we weren’t in the ocean, we could be found relaxing by either of the two pools on the expansive property.

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The food is incredible, but you don’t need to take our word for it, Kinondo Kwetu just won “Best Cuisine” in The Safari Awards. Even beyond the quality of their super fresh fish and produce, the dining experience is one of a kind. Rather than seating everyone in the same dining room meal after meal, they surprise guests with a different table each night, romantically tucked away somewhere on the property…in a beached boat, atop the water tower, in the tropical garden…you’ll just have to wait to find out.

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Another thing we adored about Kinondo Kwetu was the familial nature of things. In the evenings, guests meet at one of the various lounges or villas, as if we were gathering for drinks at a friend’s place. With old chess sets, beautiful coffee table books, and a well-stocked bar, the Mama Ta villa was one of our favorite places to get comfortable.

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A few mornings a week, a teacher from the Africa Yoga Project conducts class in the open-air studio and spa. Proceeds help empower inner-city kids through the teaching of yoga. This is one of the many of the heart-warming community projects the hotel supports, in addition to the local Kinondo Primary School and Kinodo Kwetu Clinic.

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We aren’t ones to sit still for long so we made sure to take advantage of the hotel’s volleyball net, paddle boards, tennis courts, snorkeling gear, and the Kinondo stable. We explored the beach on horseback watching local ladies gather mollusks, fisherman cast their nets, and kids splash in the waves.

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The area around Diani Beach is just as impressive. Kisite-Mpunguti Marine Reserve is a thriving ecosystem filled with bird life, dolphins, and coral gardens (scuba dive here if you can!). Even closer t the hotel is Paradise Lost, a sandbar island that only emerges at low tide. An hour after finishing our picnic the island had literally disappeared.

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There is no doubt in my mind we’ll be back to Kinodo Kwetu someday but if you get the chance before we do, order a HoneyTrek cocktail (vodka, home-made ginger juice, fresh squeezed lemon, and a splash of Sprite) and toast your new home away from home.

Anne and Mike Howard are creators of the around-the-world honeymoon blog HoneyTrek.com and Long Term Travel Coaches for anyone looking to travel the world safely, affordably and off the beaten path. You can follow @HoneyTrek on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter.

Jetwing Vil Uyana: Sigirya’s slice of heaven

As I wash away the sweat from climbing Sigirya Rock Fortress and its 1200 narrow steps, the elephant’s traces on my bruised legs, the dusty red soil from the Polunnarawa ancient city, and the oils from the Ayurveda massage, I hear the houseboy knocking on my door. He came to chase the lizard away.

One hour later, someone else knocks.

“Ayubowan!” (May you live long!) Two houseboys, traditionally dressed in their finest, but barefoot, come in to make my veiled bed.

They bow and present me with a good night gift: a box of sweets. After which they sweep and meticulously place flowers and leaves on my bed. It reads “Good night.” They pull the veil and off they go.

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I am left looking at my fanciful bed, listening to the rain in a reverie, perplexed at Sri Lanka’s customary gallantry of doing things. 

If you could only visit one place in Sri Lanka, Jetwing’s Vil Uyana would be it. A mere three miles from what many consider the 8th “Wonder of the World,” Sigirya – a brilliant fortress built on a peculiarly shaped rock rising in the middle of the surrounding jungle – Vil Uyana embodies the islands’ natural beauty and dedication to the environment. Located within the cultural triangle of Sri Lanka, famous for its rich history and long withstanding heritage, Vil Uyana is a lifestyle hotel, eco retreat and natural reservoir all in one.

Winner of the Environment Award at the 2014 Tourism for Tomorrow Awards, Vil Uyana is not just a heavenly oasis, but the quintessence of responsible tourism.

Open since October 2006, this is Jetwing Hotels’ most groundbreaking project yet.

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The hotel is the first of its kind in Sri Lanka to construct a wetland system with lakes and reed beds, from abandoned agricultural land and forest in what is known as the dry zone. In meeting this extraordinary challenge, the brilliant architect Sunela Jayawardene went by the tank-building tradition of the ancient kings of the dry zone, who collected rainwater for irrigation, bathing and recreation. The result was the formation of this private nature reserve with 27 dwellings (in four different types of habitats) spanning over 24 acres.

From the moment I arrived at Vil Uyana, the care for the environment was more than evident. No gas run vehicles are allowed on the premise, specifically on the gravel roads and boardwalks inter-connecting the dwellings. Instead, electric buggies with silent engines provide transport for guests from their villa to the reception.

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I could clearly see why. On my second buggy ride, the driver has to occasionally stop for traffic. By traffic, I mean three mesmerizing peacocks crossing the road.

At a first sight, the glamping style eco resort is brimming with lovely-dovey honeymooners. But not long after check-in, I saw plenty of solo travelers such as myself, as well as families and groups of friends. It made perfect sense; it’s the perfect spot in Sri Lanka from where to plan hiking trips, visit the island’s most renowned cultural sites and go elephant riding.

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I spent my first day at Vil Uyana inside a paddy dwelling built on stilts, in what felt like a house of its own, with my very own plunge pool and garden terrace.

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I showered with three (tiny) frogs and a myriad of lizards staring at me through the window. It somewhat felt ok. For in that unflustered, natural habitat, the sounds and look of the incredible wildlife were all too soothing and invigorating.

All throughout the night, I heard birds, monkeys, perhaps loris. I was as remote as could be, but as serene as ever.

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Over breakfast the next day, I learn about the birth of baby loris from Chaminda, the hotel’s trained naturalist, a seemingly prestigious job in Sri Lanka.  His passion for the wild and the environment is contagious.

“I love my job,” Chaminda says, “because the habitat at Jetwing Vil Uyana is a haven for wildlife, with over 112 species of birds, 20 species of mammals, 36 species of butterflies and 21 species of reptiles and amphibians.” There is plenty to see during the day, but by night he leads tours to spot Sri Lanka’s elusive primates, the Grey slender loris – which explains the torches readily available in each hotel room.

My second day at Vil Uyana, I was moved to a garden dwelling, a closer look and feel to a hotel suite but no less jaw-dropping. Apart from the disappearance of the plunge pool, most other features were very similar. What was radically different was that I had to call in for a buggy to take me everywhere; the positioning of my villa was so far from reception, I could easily get lost otherwise.

This was in fact a blessing. The remoteness and feeling of not being in a hotel, rather in a wild forest with birds, lakes, and scenic foliage was all that I could have wished for.

This was a Sri Lankan fairytale of sorts; the difference being that this fairytale was very much real.