Glamping Review Archives - Page 12 of 12

September 3, 2014June 11, 2015

Awasi: The Atacama Desert Oasis

At 10,000+ feet above sea level, less than a millimeter of rain per year, and miles of jagged salt flats, the Atacama Desert would seem to repel all things luxury…but then there’s Awasi. This lodge in San Pedro de Atacama has the coveted Relais & Chateaux seal of approval, and we quickly realized it wasn’t just its stunning design, unbelievable activities, award-winning food, and high thread count sheets that earned them five-stars—it is the unparalleled personal attention. There are over three dozen staff members for just eight rooms and every room comes with a private guide and chauffeur, dedicated to making your Atacama wishes come true. Awasi was an absolute oasis in the driest desert in the world.

Originally a second family home, the property was inspired by the simple homes of the nearby archaeological site or an early Atacama village, Aldea de Tulor. The earthy buildings are round in shape and made with the traditional mix of adobe, mud, grass, and stone with a concrete core for modern-day stability.

The villas with brea-stick roofs may appear rustic from the outside, though inside they anything but. Our circular suite was so spacious and beautifully decorated with a mix of tailored and organic accents–from French settees to locally woven textiles.

We had our first meeting with our guide in this chic outdoor lounge and quickly settled into its sea of colorful pillows. “First things first,” she said. “Can I get you a glass of Chilean wine?” Absolutely. She returned with two crisp glasses of Viognier (Awasi is all-inclusive, by the way) and discussed the slew of cultural and adventurous excursions to create our ideal itinerary.

Our heads were racing with all the exciting possibilities in the area so we decided to get our bearings with a stroll through the town center, which was just outside Awasi’s front door. San Pedro de Atacama, a town that was actually apart of Bolivia until the 1800s, feels particularly unique to Chile. Its buildings are made of adobe, dripping with red clay from the incredibly rare and brief rain cloud that pass through–no matter if it’s a posh restaurant or the town church. It feels a bit like the the wild-west, filled with extreme athletes, hippies, luxe ladies, sun-worn locals, and flash-packers mingling in a town that has a character all its own.

Looking down most streets you can catch glimpses of the snow-capped mountains and volcanoes in the distance. To get a better vantage point and to see how dazzling a sunset could be, we walked ten minutes out of town and up a tiny hill for this jaw-dropping vista. You’d think any vision of snow would be a mirage, but at 17,00 ft the Andes can beat the desert heat.

We made our way back to Awasi for dinner and knew we were in for a treat. The incredible menu changes daily, each meal with multiple courses of Chilean-fusion cuisine presented to perfection. Case in point: the raspberry sorbet, served in a candied baby papaya topped with a caramelized crisp…How beautiful is that?!

We woke up early the next day for our first big excursion: A bike ride to Cejar Pond. Located in the middle of the Atacama Salt Flat, this pond is so salty that the buoyancy rivals the Dead Sea. What looks like white rocks around this pool are actually salt crystals.

If there is one iconic spot in San Pedro de Atacama’s varied landscape, it would have to be the Moon Valley. Numerous travelers gather at its ridge for sunset but our guide had a secret peak in mind. Carrying a cooler of wine, cheese, crackers, fruit and mixed nuts, our amazing Awasi team led Mike and I up a steep hill for the most breathtaking and exclusive sun-downers.

The next morning we slept in to enjoy a late breakfast, the hotel pool, and to gear up for some late-day horseback ride and stargazing. I’m not a rider, but when presented with the opportunity to gallop through the magnificent dunes of Death Valley, I suddenly found my equestrian within.

When 10pm stuck were swept away by Awasi’s resident astronomer Jorge Antonio Corante Fernández and into the desert abyss for our stargazing session. With a rainfall of four inches every 1,000 years, and 0% humidity nearly every day of the year, the Atacama has some of the clearest and most spectacular night skies. Jorge had all the knowledge and high tech telescopes to teach us about all the stars we never get to see in the Northern Hemisphere and more.

The thing we loved most about Awasi is that the luxury isn’t confined within the walls of their lodge; it follows guests wherever they go. This sit-down sunrise breakfast, aside the steaming Tatio Geysers, is one of many examples. With Awasi, wherever we wanted to go, whatever we wanted to do, it was always possible and achieved with unforgettable style.

Anne and Mike Howard are creators of the around-the-world honeymoon blog HoneyTrek.com and Trip Coaches or those looking to extensively travel the world safely, affordably and off the beaten path. You can follow them on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter at @HoneyTrek.

Anne & Mike Howard

Mike and Anne Howard left on their honeymoon in 2012 and have been traveling the world ever since. HoneyTrek.com chronicles their adventures across 7 continents, 44 countries, and counting! Their writing, photography, and the story of the “World’s Longest Honeymoon” can also be found on Condé Nast Traveler, BBC Travel, The Knot, Los Angeles Times, CBS, and dozens of other international publications. Connect with @HoneyTrek on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter.

August 13, 2014August 13, 2014

Safari at its Most Refined: Joy’s Camp

African parks are usually all about the animals but in the arid lands of Samburu, Kenya, the landscape will make your jaw drop just as fast. Samburu, Buffalo Springs, and Shaba are three reserves connected by rivers, volcanic mountains, and golden waves of grass … and with Joy’s Camp as our guide, we got to explore all three with expert precision. This is the land where Joy Adamson, naturalist and author of Born Free, raised and released Penny the leopard, and wrote a novel about her experience. We had the privilege of staying at the site of her former home where she captured it all, the gorgeous and inspiring Joy’s Camp.

Without wasting a moment, the Joy’s Camp team picked us up in the town of Archer’s Post and we set out on safari. Heading into the reserve we passed through a neighboring Samburu village. This tribe is similar to the Maasai in that they are nomadic herders but their vibrant dress and unique homes of mud and cloth were perhaps even more striking. (I’ll never forget the little boy who came running to the roadside to wave to us, not minding one bit that he was stark naked).

Arid woodland dominates the landscape but lush rivers like these cut through, giving an instantly tropical effect. Doum palms grow like weeds along the shore and reticulated giraffes, elephants, and baboons can almost always be spied having a drink.

This is one of the amazing things about safari. We passed this very spot before lunch, and one hour later we return to find a lion relaxing in the shade of the toothbrush tree (the bristle-like branches are used by locals for teeth cleaning). It reminded us of the constant dance between animals and safari-goers and that just because you don’t see an animal doesn’t mean it’s not there.

We arrive at Joy’s Camp to find our glamping home for the week. Tucked into the trees, the canvas structures blend perfectly, making it ideal for immersion with the wild. (so much so that night guards always escort guests in the event a large animal crosses their path).

Walking into the reception area, the mood is set to capture Joy’s creativity. Her typewriter sits out on the desk, her paintings and sketches hang on the wall, and her favorite possessions decorate the space.

Though our tent may have appeared a demure canvas from the outside, the inside was as luxurious as a suite can be. A silk-trimmed mosquito net draped over our canopy bed, handmade glass lanterns illuminated the space, and graphic African accents gave it a sense of place.

After settling into our room, we took a dip in their gorgeous pool. We love that the edges naturally flow like the shores of a pond rather than the usual cookie-cutter rectangle.

Before our delicious Afro-European fusion dinners, we would gather for cocktails in the lounge. Each space in the hotel felt relaxed and sophisticated all at once.

The next morning we left for an early game drive and this incredible Grant’s gazelle training session was our first encounter. One alpha male dominates a herd of females while the rest of the bachelors band together plotting his demise. To keep each other’s skills sharp, they occasionally have sparring sessions. Watching these two lock horns and joust their way around the field felt as official as an Olympic fencing match. (Especially with that “referee” in the middle).

Rather than eating breakfast before dawn or racing back to camp for sustenance, the Joy’s Camp chefs set up the most incredible meals along our route. A grill, complete with omelet station, fruit bar, and pastry table were ready as soon as we pulled up to this exclusive river spot. Now that’s service.

The game drive continued … spotting families of elephants, ostriches in courtship, colonies of rock hyrax, and the endangered Grevy’s Zebra. There are only 2,000 Grevys remaining in the wild and Samburu happens to be a place they thrive. We were lucky enough to study the close-knit stripes of this rare species on a few occasions.

There was an intensity level to each encounter at Samburu and Shaba reserves. What would normally be an average sighting, like vultures picking at a skeleton, turned into one of the most cut-throat Darwinian moments. Here, 30+ vultures scratched, squawked, pecked with desperation to get at the last bits of a buffalo. Watching the power change hands by the second, we were captivated.

A stay at Joy’s Camp is as well-rounded as an African safari gets. Fascinating cultures, breathtaking landscapes, thriving wildlife all make you feel like you aren’t just on a game drive, you are discovering Africa at its finest.

Anne and Mike Howard are creators of the around-the-world honeymoon blog HoneyTrek.com and Trip Coaches for those looking to extensively travel the world safely, affordably and off the beaten path. You can follow them on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter at @HoneyTrek.

Anne & Mike Howard

February 9, 2014February 9, 2014

Glamping Review: C Lazy U Ranch – Granby, CO

When planning your next dream trip, what plays the biggest role in deciding where to go? Is it your budget . . . time of year . . . activities . . . accommodations? How about the number of vacation days you have left? Well it just might be that the weather ends up being the biggest factor.

To mark our 20th wedding anniversary, my wife and I booked a trip to Colorado this past September to take advantage of a shoulder season that (usually) features beautiful fall weather. It turns out that two weeks before our scheduled flight, we sadly watched unrelenting torrential rains devastated the state. I was convinced we’d be forced to change our plans.

Fortunately, the massive flooding that forced the evacuation of several towns north of Denver didn’t impact our visit to the C Lazy U Ranch 100 miles to the west. Unfortunately, we couldn’t say the same for our stay in Estes Park, where road closures made us detour over two hours to get there. Thankfully, the golden foliage was out in full force and the temperatures managed to hover in the 60s/70s during the daytime.

Like most “nature lovers”, our idea of the perfect romantic getaway includes plenty of outdoor recreation and accommodations that offer refinements that go well beyond the standard hotel room. When planning for this particular occasion, the C Lazy U Ranch easily met this criteria.

There would be plenty of activities like fly fishing, tennis, trap shooting, archery, mountain biking, ropes courses, and of course, horseback riding to choose from. Better yet, they were all available amidst an awe-inspiring, untamed landscape.

The ranch encompasses over 8,500 acres of lush meadows, Aspen lined mountain trails, and the Colorado River. It’s one of the few remaining places where you can experience the traditions of the American West from the moment you arrive. Family, horsemanship and land preservation form the foundation of their mission: Honoring and preserving the traditions of the Great American West.

Ultimately, we chose the C Lazy U Ranch for the opportunity to try some “glamping”. After all, how better to experience this special part of the country than with an overnight campout?

After a savory gourmet dinner at The Lodge, we hung around the fire pit with some guests we had just met from California and Canada. As the drinks wound down, a ranch hand escorted us in a motorized golf cart to the outpost where our tent was all set up and waiting for us. Inside, we found a king size bed and a pair of twins. Since this was one of the rare times we weren’t traveling with the kids, there’d be no need for the extra sleeping arrangements, other than to prop up our suitcases.

Besides four solid walls, indoor plumbing, and a reliable climate control system, we pretty much enjoyed the same amenities found in the cabins back at the ranch. The rustic ambience included oil lamps, all-wooden furniture, and to our great delight, our very own S’mores kit!

With temperatures dropping down into the lower 40s, starting a fire in our own fire pit was appealing for more than just the S’mores. After warming up and successfully sandwiching roasted marshmallows between two pieces of graham cracker and some Hershey’s chocolate, it was time to get cozy.

Although my wife and I love the whole camping experience, sleeping with only a thin layer of canvas between you and the great outdoors does present its challenges when it comes to getting a good night’s rest. Even though the late night silence was often broken by howling coyotes and bugling elk, I didn’t mind the interrupted slumber. Waking up to a glorious sunrise glistening through the morning mist made the restless night more than worth it.

After returning to the ranch, our daily activities revolved mainly around two central locations: The Barn, originally built in 1925 and now houses the supplies for over 180 horses, and The Patio House, where we enjoyed lunch and dinner cook-outs, lounged by the pool, and soaked in the hot tub (the kids, if they were with us, would likely have ditched us for its game room).

If the Patio House was the center for all the casual activities, The Five Spur Spa is where we got centered. In the spirit of glamping and getting more in-touch with our natural surroundings, two of the massage tents are suspended over the river and have glass floors, so you can contemplate the movement of the water during a massage.

And unlike many other dude ranches out west, the onset of freezing temperatures and snow doesn’t close things down at C Lazy U. Snowcat skiing, ice skating, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, sledding & snowtubing, snowmobiling, and even horseback riding (both indoors and out) offer enough to keep you active.

Rainer Jenss

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