Glamping Cottages Archives

November 12, 2014November 12, 2014

The Jewel of the Swahili Coast: Kinondo Kwetu

Kinondo Kwetu is one of those places where the moment you leave, you are already planning your return. You walk into the main space of this former Kenyan home with its soaring thatch ceiling, African chic furnishings, and white curtains billowing from the ocean breeze, and you exhale. In Swahili, Kinondo Kwetu means “home away from home,” and when you feel a wave of calm as you soak in their 13 acres of gardens, beach, forest, and villas decorated to perfection…you’ll know how it got its name.

About an hour south of Mombasa, this ultra-chic glamping destination is set in the beautiful and fascinating cove of Diani Beach. The turquoise tides change dramatically throughout the day but as they recede, members of the local Digo tribe often come out to pay homage to this sacred rock. Paper prayers are left in its crevices and cast out to sea when the spirit moves them.

The series of cottages and villas are built from coral rock, plaster, and macuti thatch with plenty of ocean-view windows. We stayed on the top floor of this double-decker beauty but a group or family could quite happily rent the entire cottage.

When we weren’t in the ocean, we could be found relaxing by either of the two pools on the expansive property.

The food is incredible, but you don’t need to take our word for it, Kinondo Kwetu just won “Best Cuisine” in The Safari Awards. Even beyond the quality of their super fresh fish and produce, the dining experience is one of a kind. Rather than seating everyone in the same dining room meal after meal, they surprise guests with a different table each night, romantically tucked away somewhere on the property…in a beached boat, atop the water tower, in the tropical garden…you’ll just have to wait to find out.

Another thing we adored about Kinondo Kwetu was the familial nature of things. In the evenings, guests meet at one of the various lounges or villas, as if we were gathering for drinks at a friend’s place. With old chess sets, beautiful coffee table books, and a well-stocked bar, the Mama Ta villa was one of our favorite places to get comfortable.

A few mornings a week, a teacher from the Africa Yoga Project conducts class in the open-air studio and spa. Proceeds help empower inner-city kids through the teaching of yoga. This is one of the many of the heart-warming community projects the hotel supports, in addition to the local Kinondo Primary School and Kinodo Kwetu Clinic.

We aren’t ones to sit still for long so we made sure to take advantage of the hotel’s volleyball net, paddle boards, tennis courts, snorkeling gear, and the Kinondo stable. We explored the beach on horseback watching local ladies gather mollusks, fisherman cast their nets, and kids splash in the waves.

The area around Diani Beach is just as impressive. Kisite-Mpunguti Marine Reserve is a thriving ecosystem filled with bird life, dolphins, and coral gardens (scuba dive here if you can!). Even closer t the hotel is Paradise Lost, a sandbar island that only emerges at low tide. An hour after finishing our picnic the island had literally disappeared.

There is no doubt in my mind we’ll be back to Kinodo Kwetu someday but if you get the chance before we do, order a HoneyTrek cocktail (vodka, home-made ginger juice, fresh squeezed lemon, and a splash of Sprite) and toast your new home away from home.

Anne and Mike Howard are creators of the around-the-world honeymoon blog HoneyTrek.com and Long Term Travel Coaches for anyone looking to travel the world safely, affordably and off the beaten path. You can follow @HoneyTrek on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter.

Anne & Mike Howard

Mike and Anne Howard left on their honeymoon in 2012 and have been traveling the world ever since. HoneyTrek.com chronicles their adventures across 7 continents, 44 countries, and counting! Their writing, photography, and the story of the “World’s Longest Honeymoon” can also be found on Condé Nast Traveler, BBC Travel, The Knot, Los Angeles Times, CBS, and dozens of other international publications. Connect with @HoneyTrek on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter.

October 15, 2014October 17, 2014

Tongabezi…The Best of Victoria Falls

The world’s largest waterfall extends 5,604 feet and crashes into the Zambezi River casting a mist that can be felt for 30 miles…but to unlock the true wonder of Victoria Falls, a stay at Tongabezi Lodge is key. As the first hotel to be built on the upper banks of Zambia’s Zambezi river, Tongabezi has the ultimate location, connections, and expertise to satisfy your every glamping desire.

Founders Ben and Vanessa Parker built the eco-lodge to embrace the area’s African roots and wild environment…without straying too far from Western comforts. This is the base camp for their slew of river activities and where we met for our first culinary adventure.

At the dock, a wooden boat greeted us with a perfectly set table for two. We savored every course as we wound our way up the lively Zambezi.

The spiced lamb kebabs with sauteed okra and tomato (grown in Tongabezi’s very own garden) had the most incredible flavor…a trend that continued with every meal. For a little post-lunch entertainment we coasted by a family of hippos having an afternoon dip.

Escorted by our valet Niambe (all guests have a personal attendant throughout the course of their stay…talk about luxury!), we were presented with two fantastic suites to choose from. One was a gorgeous room directly on the river with nothing but screens keeping you from the sounds and breezes of the Zambezi. The second choice was the “Nut House,” a thatch-roof cottage tucked up on the hill with views out to the river and an infinity plunge pool outside. Both amazing, but who says no to a private pool?

Here is the aqua beauty that won us over, complete with to-die-for views of the wildlife teaming along the riverbank. We swam in the heat of the day and the twinkle of the stars.

Inside our suite, the room was the epitome of African luxury. A staircase brought us down past our bar area to the fireplace lounge area, and then to our grand four-poster bed. The vibrant Zambian textiles, antique accents, and modern amenities made us want move in.

In the afternoon we went on safari at the nearby Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park (which means “The Smoke that Thunders,” the Tonga name for the falls). There we saw giraffe, zebra, warthogs, elephants, baboons…but this hippo sighting? It was at dinner! We were on the patio a few feet above the riverbanks and heard the sound of a big mouth chopping and snarfing; we flashed our light and low and behold it was an adolescent hippo a few yards from our table! You’d think with the light he might scurry away, but no, he ate right alongside us throughout our meal and even joined us for some after-dinner drinks.

Tongabezi is a true pioneer in eco-tourism throughout the region and the best example of that is Livingstone Island. They have exclusive access to this island which literally hangs over the edge of the world’s largest waterfall, providing views that will make your stomach drop and your heart soar. For our full experience at Livingstone Island and the National Park of Victoria Falls, see our Glamping review of their neighboring property Sindabezi Island Camp.

When it comes to ambiance and romance, Tongabezi left us love-struck. Chilled wine awaited us in the room each evening, bubble baths drawn before dinner, hot cocoa and blankets for morning boat rides, and countless other thoughtful touches popped up at every turn. But the gesture that really gave them top billing in our hearts was our dinner on the Sampan. Check out this video clip and imagine sitting with your partner on a floating dining room in the middle of the Zambezi river, enjoying dinner under the glow of lanterns and moonlight, accompanied by the sounds of an African choir growing louder and more beautiful as they row towards you in a canoe. It will take your breath away.

Most mornings we woke up early to take advantage of the cool air and to watch the animals start their day. While out for a sunrise boat ride and fishing adventure, we saw a bit of rustling on the river bank and spotted this feisty pair of elephants having a drink. Press play to see this powerful encounter.

A visit to Tongabezi wouldn’t be complete without at stop at their trust school, Tujatane. It started in 1996 as a primary school for the owner and staff’s children, but with fantastic success it now serves nearly 200 community youth. We took a tour with the principal and he proudly regaled us with stories of students that had gone on to be doctors, pilots, and leaders in their community. Amazingly the school is run entirely on donations and proceeds from the gift shop!

Staying a few nights at Tongabezi and a couple nights at their sister camp Sindabezi was the perfect way to experience the Zambezi River and Victoria Falls. The same river and safari activities are available from both properties –so regardless if you want the excitement of camp or the creature comforts of the hotel, you don’t have to compromise any adventures by day.

Anne & Mike Howard

September 3, 2014June 11, 2015

Awasi: The Atacama Desert Oasis

At 10,000+ feet above sea level, less than a millimeter of rain per year, and miles of jagged salt flats, the Atacama Desert would seem to repel all things luxury…but then there’s Awasi. This lodge in San Pedro de Atacama has the coveted Relais & Chateaux seal of approval, and we quickly realized it wasn’t just its stunning design, unbelievable activities, award-winning food, and high thread count sheets that earned them five-stars—it is the unparalleled personal attention. There are over three dozen staff members for just eight rooms and every room comes with a private guide and chauffeur, dedicated to making your Atacama wishes come true. Awasi was an absolute oasis in the driest desert in the world.

Originally a second family home, the property was inspired by the simple homes of the nearby archaeological site or an early Atacama village, Aldea de Tulor. The earthy buildings are round in shape and made with the traditional mix of adobe, mud, grass, and stone with a concrete core for modern-day stability.

The villas with brea-stick roofs may appear rustic from the outside, though inside they anything but. Our circular suite was so spacious and beautifully decorated with a mix of tailored and organic accents–from French settees to locally woven textiles.

We had our first meeting with our guide in this chic outdoor lounge and quickly settled into its sea of colorful pillows. “First things first,” she said. “Can I get you a glass of Chilean wine?” Absolutely. She returned with two crisp glasses of Viognier (Awasi is all-inclusive, by the way) and discussed the slew of cultural and adventurous excursions to create our ideal itinerary.

Our heads were racing with all the exciting possibilities in the area so we decided to get our bearings with a stroll through the town center, which was just outside Awasi’s front door. San Pedro de Atacama, a town that was actually apart of Bolivia until the 1800s, feels particularly unique to Chile. Its buildings are made of adobe, dripping with red clay from the incredibly rare and brief rain cloud that pass through–no matter if it’s a posh restaurant or the town church. It feels a bit like the the wild-west, filled with extreme athletes, hippies, luxe ladies, sun-worn locals, and flash-packers mingling in a town that has a character all its own.

Looking down most streets you can catch glimpses of the snow-capped mountains and volcanoes in the distance. To get a better vantage point and to see how dazzling a sunset could be, we walked ten minutes out of town and up a tiny hill for this jaw-dropping vista. You’d think any vision of snow would be a mirage, but at 17,00 ft the Andes can beat the desert heat.

We made our way back to Awasi for dinner and knew we were in for a treat. The incredible menu changes daily, each meal with multiple courses of Chilean-fusion cuisine presented to perfection. Case in point: the raspberry sorbet, served in a candied baby papaya topped with a caramelized crisp…How beautiful is that?!

We woke up early the next day for our first big excursion: A bike ride to Cejar Pond. Located in the middle of the Atacama Salt Flat, this pond is so salty that the buoyancy rivals the Dead Sea. What looks like white rocks around this pool are actually salt crystals.

If there is one iconic spot in San Pedro de Atacama’s varied landscape, it would have to be the Moon Valley. Numerous travelers gather at its ridge for sunset but our guide had a secret peak in mind. Carrying a cooler of wine, cheese, crackers, fruit and mixed nuts, our amazing Awasi team led Mike and I up a steep hill for the most breathtaking and exclusive sun-downers.

The next morning we slept in to enjoy a late breakfast, the hotel pool, and to gear up for some late-day horseback ride and stargazing. I’m not a rider, but when presented with the opportunity to gallop through the magnificent dunes of Death Valley, I suddenly found my equestrian within.

When 10pm stuck were swept away by Awasi’s resident astronomer Jorge Antonio Corante Fernández and into the desert abyss for our stargazing session. With a rainfall of four inches every 1,000 years, and 0% humidity nearly every day of the year, the Atacama has some of the clearest and most spectacular night skies. Jorge had all the knowledge and high tech telescopes to teach us about all the stars we never get to see in the Northern Hemisphere and more.

The thing we loved most about Awasi is that the luxury isn’t confined within the walls of their lodge; it follows guests wherever they go. This sit-down sunrise breakfast, aside the steaming Tatio Geysers, is one of many examples. With Awasi, wherever we wanted to go, whatever we wanted to do, it was always possible and achieved with unforgettable style.

Anne and Mike Howard are creators of the around-the-world honeymoon blog HoneyTrek.com and Trip Coaches or those looking to extensively travel the world safely, affordably and off the beaten path. You can follow them on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter at @HoneyTrek.

Anne & Mike Howard

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