Kirkenes, in northeastern Norway, is located roughly 250 miles north of the Arctic Circle, right next to Russia. If you lived here, you could likely see Russia from your house. Travelers to this pocket of northern Europe are typically guests of the Norwegian working cruise line Hurtigruten, which ports in Kirkenes before making the five-night trip back down to Bergen. Thus, this little town of approximately 3,500 people welcomes a lot of one-nighters, the ideal clientele for the local Snow Hotel.
Adjacent to one of the area’s Arctic fjords, the most recent incarnation of the Snow Hotel featured 20 snow suites, all of which were outfitted with relief sculpture along its walls. Sadly the Snow Hotel I saw has already melted and been absorbed by Norwegian soil. But back in February, the property was at its majestic peak, shiny and glowing in the middle of an icy landscape famed for its fresh crabs, dog sledding and the iconic Northern Lights.
Traveling all the way up to Kirkenes is all about experiences. Thankfully the Snow Hotel leads the area with a variety of local activities. They’re an added cost, but well worth it. You don’t come all the way up here just to sleep in a tricked out igloo. One of the most spectacular of what’s on offer has to be the king crab safari. From start to finish, it was an adventure. We took snowmobiles across frozen fjords until we reached a big hole in the ice where we fished out a massive trap filled with king crabs. The Snow Hotel staff pulled crabs out so that everyone can take turns holding them for pictures. Then they killed them. For a lot of us, it was an uncomfortable but necessary visual. We’re only taking the legs; the rest was tossed back into the fjord to fatten up the king crabs that dwell there.
We ate the crabs in a wood lodge in the middle of nowhere. I couldn’t tell you where it was. It’s impossible to. Up there everything was white with ice or covered with snow. But I can say this: The crab was delicious, and I ate enough to sustain a small army. Maybe I overdid it, but I suspected that it’ll be a long time coming before I can get my hands on king crab legs that juicy, that fresh, that huge again. So when the staff passed our table with a platter full of just boiled crabs, I saw no reason to say no.
During my stay in Kirkenes, eating my weight in crab legs was a personal highlight. But it could have just as easily have been snowmobiling at midnight in search of the Northern Lights (elusive as they were that evening) or dog sledding with the most adorable set of huskies. The kind of things you end up doing up there are unique enough that they’ll stay with you well beyond your trip. There were so many other guests who raved about what they’ve achieved with just a day to spend in Kirkenes.
Every night at the Snow Hotel started with a tour of the facilities to acquaint each guest with what a night here would be like. We learned things like where the bathrooms and showers are, and how to use a military-grade sleeping bag. Everyone was invited to check out all the rooms (though you are assigned one ahead of time), which were decorated with wall sculptures. Some of them were whimsical (Snow White and her seven dwarves); while others were a bit less so, like a troll scene. The bed is a block of snow topped with fur and other sort of bedding for ultimate comfort. And for a door, there’s a curtain to allow for as much air circulation within the building.
I decided earlier on that I won’t be sleeping at the Snow Hotel. I understand that it’s a one-of-a-kind experience, but I’ve never been interested in sleeping on ice. The staff guaranteed that as long as you do as you’re told regarding the sleeping bag and how to dress for the hotel, you won’t be cold, which was great a thing to know, but I wasn’t going to budge. Everything I did on and with the property, I enjoyed. The on-site restaurant Gabba – with its chalet-chic-inspired decor and rustic-yet-elegant local cuisine – was fabulous. And there’s even a cozy lounge in the building attached to the snow hotel, where guests often spend the evening before heading to their private chambers. (Sometimes the staff will find guests sleeping there in the morning.) The Snow Hotel does a great job of creating programing around the accommodations to elevate your stay there. But I wasn’t convinced that I was going to be comfortable so I settled for doing everything else you could possible at the Snow Hotel, except sleep there.
Photo Credit Hilary Nangle/MaineTravelMaven
