Posted on

Jetwing Yala: Chasing Asia’s Leopards

As we drive off on board the safari jeeps, the dusty red, clay road ahead of us is only just a modest start to our prolific wildlife explorations for the day, at the Yala National Park – the Park is known to have one of the highest leopard concentrations in the world while it is also home to a number of Asian elephants, sloth bears, peacocks, crocodiles and a plethora of flora and fauna.

DSC02165

Our driver, a young, funny fellow, well trained in leopard spotting from any considerable distance otherwise unattainable to the human eye, is a refreshing burst of jokes, combating our fatigue from the subduing heat.

Nothing on the road yet, some complain, until we suddenly come to a shrieking halt: an unidentifiable creature leisurely crossing our path.

This is how daily life unfolds at Yala, Jetwing’s newest hotel in the midst of some of Asia’s paramount wildlife. Blissfully insulated twenty minutes away from the main road, what initially looks like army quarters from afar is soon revealed to be a zen hotel surrounded by lush greenery, set on a 38 acre land adjoining the Indian Ocean. The panoramic views are sure to make you gasp!

DSC02156

Jetwing Yala exudes simple elegance from every corner, while focusing on sustainability; it hosts the largest privately owned solar park in Sri Lanka. Whether it’s the surrounding wild habitat, or the interior’s colors and details, the property offers its guests a back to nature feeling. All guestrooms (with a choice of Superior and Deluxe accommodations) exhibit muted, earthy tones, with a splash of turquoise or red.

The King coconut I was zealously sipping out of as I walked into my room, perfectly matched the green tones of the canopy bed. The Superior room I would now call home was no ordinary space, but a spacious dwelling to rest, dine and lounge on my very own terrace.

DSC02144

The finest feature, however, is surely the bathroom. Larger than most hotel rooms in other parts of the world, this bathroom teased me from the very beginning, with its showerhead under the clear blue sky and liberating feeling, due to lack of unnecessary doors, bulky bathtubs and slippery floors.

One other extraordinary feature is the infinity swimming pool, with seemingly fresh water from the ocean. Don’t be surprised to see guests stay well into the night into their robes, having transitioned from the pool onto the beach where cocktails are served. Jetwing Yala is just the place to do so. From a blanket full of stars to a first glimpse of a burning sunrise, your stay here is full of rewards.

DSC02150

Dining is another. From lotus curries and the island’s spiciest dishes, to Western delicacies and Japanese delights, to a sinful palette of desserts, Jetwing Yala is a gastronomic journey in itself that is both diverse, as it is delicious.

DSC02148

So grab your Lion (the Sri Lankan beer, what else?!), and join the beach party for the night. This may be Jetwing Yala, but no lions, or leopards, for you tonight …

Posted on

Glamping Review: Patagonia Camp

Inside Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia, there are many fabulous and transporting options for lodging, most of them highlighting the incredible natural riches of the area. But perhaps nothing will get you closer to the outdoors than a stay at Patagonia Camp and its collection of 18 luxury yurts on the edge of Lake Toro.

mat

Patagonia Camp has an ecological mission to minimize its impact (as well as its guests’) on the environment. For example, instead of mowing down trees (like the lenga, a tree indigenous to Chile)) that surround the property to make space for your bedroom, all the camp architecture is placed on wooden stilts and platforms. Patagonia Camp also recycles its water through a waste treatment plant, which is why you’re discouraged from using your own bath amenities and should instead go to town on the ones already in yurt. And before visions of ho-hum shampoos and soaps clog your mind, know that the hotel collaborated with a company in Santiago to create products that are not only biodegradable but sweet-smelling, too. The travel-size bottles of body treats are packed with ingredients like aloe vera and lavender that will make you forget you ever brought your own stuff. I loved the shampoo so much I took it with me at check out.

Amenities

The All-Inclusive option, which is what most guests go for when booking here, includes a variety of perks, from local transfers and the park’s entrance fee to an open bar, meals and a selection of excursions. More intrepid (read: fitter) travelers will definitely want to do the Torres Base Trek, one of the famed hikes in Patagonia that will inflict all sorts of physical demands such as the final 45-minute uphill climb to the foot of the Three Towers, one of the geographical icons of South America. Patagonia Camp’s location right by Lake Toro, however, affords its guests plenty of exclusive excursions, too, like fishing on the lake and a fairly easy hike to one of the nearby waterfalls. If you want to spring for activities not included in the program but well worth the added expense, kayaking on Lake Grey is one of those Bucket List experiences you never thought you had. An afternoon spent paddling around with floating glaciers close enough to touch is simply unforgettable. All of it is guided by kind (and thankfully patient) locals who have mastered this area and, more than likely, the English language. Patagonia Camp is constantly developing new excursions to give travelers truly immersive opportunities when they’re in Patagonia. Who knows what new-fangled itinerary they’ll come with next?

Front desk

After a day of adventure that will acquaint you to Patagonia’s natural majesty, you’ll retreat back to camp for a little R&R before that evening’s meal. The main house is essentially the one-stop shop at Patagonia Camp. It’s where you check in, there’s a lounge where you can hang out and perhaps meet other guests, there’s a small bar where you can try some Chilean vinos, and it also houses the main dining room where all meals are served. Almost everything that comes from the kitchen is local and sourced from Puerto Natales, a small town outside the park. One of the more spectacular meals at the camp is the traditional lamb BBQ, which is organized three nights a week. An entire lamb is slow-roasted for five hours leaving it deliciously tender. Its served with all sorts of sides and vegetables, filling enough to reclaim all the calories you would lose after a full day’s hike.

Night

The yurts themselves aren’t particularly huge (each is about 300 square feet in total plus a terrace), but they are wonderfully decorated with locally handcrafted furniture like the pale wood desk and bed plus colorful woven textiles and plush animal hide area rugs. Each unit is simple, uncluttered and stylish. The bed is placed directly under a clear patch of the yurt’s roof allowing you to soak in star-lit skies before going to bed. It’s a fantastic inclusion that you may not think you want but given the low air pollution in Patagonia, you’ll (especially city dwellers who never see the star) be glad it’s there. And the large windows that look out to the lake will constantly remind you of just how gorgeous and unspoiled this pocket of the world is. Leaving the curtains open at night and letting the stream of sunlight to wake you up in the morning is the perfect start to a day in Patagonia. And the bright turquoise of Lake Toro will be the first thing you’ll see.

Posted on

Desert Luxury at Longitude 131

I looked out of my plane window and saw a reddish-orange desert landscape peppered with a surprising amount of green shrubs.  I stared at the flat, barren land surprised at how vibrant it was.  This isn’t at all what I expected from Australia’s desert and outback.  However, this vibrant color in the desert was the beginning my many surprises and yin yang experience in the Red Centre.

From the air you could barely notice them, but suddenly I was able to pick out the semi circle of 15 white roofs peeking out through the red and green landscape.  I fixated on the roofs and their proximity to the Uluru – one of the world’s largest and most spiritual monoliths.  This was the draw of Longitude 131 – proximity to this important landmark in Australia.  However, while most people go to the Red Centre of the Northern Territory to primarily see Uluru with lodging being an afterthought – it was opposite for me.  It was the opportunity to stay at the all-inclusive Longitude 131 that was my impetus for coming to Uluru.  Some might say my priorities are screwed up, but after two days soaking in the experience of Longitude 131, I think my priorities were just fine.

Longitude 131 7

I had camped out in the dessert before in Northern Africa, however upon arriving at Longitude 131, the premier glamping destination of the Northern Territory, I knew this was going to be nothing like I had ever experienced before.  This exclusive glamping spot good enough for the Royal Family and Oprah is best known for their luxury, service, seclusion, and view of Uluru.  This was a place where you came to relax, learn, and soak in the culture and environment around you.

For me it was also a place of complimentary contrasts – yin and yang.  I felt these opposite yet complementary forces at work constantly during my time at Longitude 131.  This feeling for me started with the desert landscape and continued to the tents, the food, and the people I met.

Longitude 131 2

A Tent With a View

I arrived and was shown to my personal glamping ‘tent’.  It was part canvas tent, and part pre-fab building elevated off the ground making it look as if my room was floating above the red sand desert floor.   Each tent had a 3 walls and one wall that was a huge window.  The window looked out on your own personal view of Uluru.  After all, Uluru is the main attraction.  The room was even designed so that in the bathroom (thanks to sliding mirrors) you could also see your own personal view of Uluru.

Longitude 131 1

The design of the room had an earthy feel and old world charm with muted colors, dark wood, wooden trunks, and a chaise lounge.  Yet the old explorer feel had modern touches with an iPad and Bose speakers in each room with preloaded playlists for romance, chilling out, rock & roll, and local indigenous music.  The turn down service included fur covered hot water bottles to warm your bed during the cold desert nights.  And each tent was stocked with a selection of teas and Nespresso coffee maker.  Overall it reflected a sense of place with respect of its surroundings and history.  I didn’t really want to leave my gorgeous room, but with so much to see and do at Longitude 131, I knew I couldn’t stay in my comfortable tent forever!

Longitude 131 12

Experiences with a Luxury Twist

Longitude 131 wasn’t just about luxury accommodations – it was about celebrating the culture and spirit of the area.  Each day there is a touring program that is run by a Longitude guide, and is centered around sunrise and sunset – two very special times at Uluru Kata Tjuta National Park.  You go as a group to the experiences which makes them not only educational but social. The first night we went to the cultural center in the park to learn more about the Anangnu people and their history.  Then as the sun started it’s descent into the red horizon, we went to a private viewing area for the sunset complete with champagne.

Longitude 131 6

After the sun had set and the pictures were taken, we were whisked away to Table 131, a one-of-a-kind dinner under the stars.  This was my first taste of the talent of Chef Seona Moss.  She infused local ingredients unique to the desert into her creations and each plate was served up with incredible attention to detail – even in the dark under the stars.   After dinner we were handed a glass of port and treated to a star talk to learn about the astronomy of the Southern Hemisphere by our guide Andy.  He didn’t just talk about stars, but also the rotation of the planets and solar system, moons, black holes and star stages.  The dessert is the perfect backdrop with no light pollution for stargazing!

Longitude 131 8

Each experience was focused on learning the stories of the Anangnu.  The song lines (stories) reminded me of ancient mythology tales full of love, loss, and super powers.  The experiences also included some hiking and light walking.  Backpacks, water bottles, and fly nets were provided for every guest for the outings.  Each experience in the evening ended with cocktails and canapés in the outdoors.  A beautiful setting for happy hour as you watch the fantastic colors on Uluru change by the setting sun and get to know your fellow travelers.

Longitude 131 14

Guides as Teachers

“There are millions of wattles!” our guide Graham remarked with a laugh.  His comment made me laugh as I wasn’t even sure what a wattle was. However, I did know that a wattle was a plant, as Graham had been educating us and subsequently quizzing us on the plants and trees during our Kata Tjuta hike.   For some reason all I could remember was the word “wattle”, but all of the other names describing the specific wattles were lost on me in a sea of new information we were receiving on the hike.

Longitude 131 5

On each outing we had a different guide for the experience – this was done on purpose so that we could get different perspectives.  I really liked this aspect, as each guide’s passion and interest seemed to come out in their stories.  Some of guides I connected to more than others – but all were extremely knowledgeable and professional.  Graham had been there a long time and had visited years ago when the land ownership picture was quite different – so he offered a very unique perspective on the history.

Longitude 131 9

However, my time with Mark was probably my most memorable.  Mark is Scottish and as unique as they come.  He was extremely interested in the Anangnu culture and often spent time in their village connecting personally with them.  He did a nice job of helping me understand the Anangnu’s deep connection with the land.  He was the best studied in the native language and the stories in my opinion.  He even taught me how to count in Pitjantjatjara language. I spent one morning with him walking around Uluru learning of some of the important song lines.  He even provided me time on my own to simply walk and soak it all in.

Longitude 131 10

Modern and Indigenous Flavors

Just as Longitude 131 successfully mixes luxury with a rugged environment, Chef Moss infuses indigenous plants and fruits into her impeccably presented recipes at the Dune House (the communal dining and lodge facility).  She’s been the head chef at Longitude for 4 years and regularly goes out into the Anangnu community to learn from them in how they use the nature around them in their culture and cooking.  She’s even working on taking on a local apprentice or starting some programs for the locals.

The presentation was so colorful – like a piece of art coming out on each plate.  One lunch Chef Moss made an entire menu using edible flowers.  However my favorite presentation was the ceviche served in a shell on a bed of red sand with a small rock placed on the plate representing Uluru.  I was amazed at how fresh the food was in this barren desert land; utilizing fresh parsley, mint, and fennel making you forget entirely that you were in the middle of a desert.

These contrasting yet complementary feelings were the foundation for my stay at Longitude 131.  Relaxed yet active, luxurious yet rugged, old world yet technologically advanced, old ingredients and new – all perfectly mixed together to create the ultimate glamping experience in Australia.