Arctic Adrenaline Rush

Our team of sled-dogs whisks us deeper into the Lapland tundra, where mountains drop off into the fjords and wild reindeer roam. We are in Oteren, Norway with Lyngsfjord Adventure, an outfitter that knows how to make the most of the Arctic Circle. We stayed here for two days to catch the Northern Lights, try our hand at dog sledding, soak up tribal Sami culture, and make memories we will never forget.

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The Lyngsfjord team picked us up in the arctic capital of Tromsø with a few other guests, some coming to chase the aurora borealis, others to go snowmobiling and ice fishing for the night and those who wanted to pack in multiple adventures with an overnight stay at Camp Tamok. After a 75-minute drive deep into the wilderness, we arrived at camp and got suited up in Lyngsfjord’s insulated bodysuits, boots, and gloves to take on the Arctic.

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Our first excursion was something we never thought was possible outside of Christmas stories…reindeer sledding! Reindeer are actually the oldest form of transportation in northern Scandinavia and an integral part of Sami culture. Our leader Roar Nyheim, a Sami tribesman who grew up in Lapland herding reindeer, gave us a brief safety speech, then said, “Sit back and enjoy the view!” Cuddled up in blankets, Mike and I gazed up at the star-filled sky and snow-capped mountains until we arrived at Roar’s favorite spot. He made a campfire and served us tea in record time, all while regaling us with stories of the traditional Sami life and legends.

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We returned to camp and were ushered into a Lavvu-style tent for hearty stew and hot drinks. Guests swapped stories from their adventure of choice, then either headed back to Tromsø or got settled in for the evening. For those of us who stayed, we had an exciting night of Aurora-chasing ahead of us. This area of Norway is known for its clear skies and lack of light pollution so the Northern Lights are visible most nights from November to March. We stayed up well past midnight watching green and purple striations swirl between the shining stars.

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For lodging, guests and groups can stay in the Wilderness Cabin or Traditional Sami Tent, but for couples, the most romantic choice is the Aurora Chalet. This wooden cabin perched above the riverbank is charming and toasty warm, but its best feature is the skylight–perfectly angled to watch the Northern Lights from bed!

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Before our traditional Norwegian breakfast, we had a delightful sauna session. It warmed us to the core and loosened our muscles for the day of dog sledding ahead.

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Mike and I got a quick mushing lesson, were assigned to our team of five huskies, then set off into the Vass Valley! We thought dog sledding would be difficult but Lyngsfjord’s huskies are so well trained, they just run and you break and lighten the load, as needed (by jogging behind them on the hills, so fun!). The important thing to know is that once the huskies start running, they don’t stop..so hang on!


To see what it’s like to drive a pack of huskies through the snow, watch this clip from our 15-kilometer ride through this Norwegian winter wonderland!

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By our second day at Lyngsfjord Adventure, we’d figured out how Norwegians keep from getting cold in the Arctic… adrenaline! Insulated clothing helps, but mushing huskies, riding reindeer sleighs, and chasing the Northern Lights is the secret to feeling warm inside and out.

Anne and Mike Howard are creators of the around-the-world honeymoon blog HoneyTrek.com and Long Term Travel Coaches for anyone looking to travel the world safely, affordably and off the beaten path. You can follow @HoneyTrek on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter.

Saving Wildlife and the Wilderness

In the world of glamping — which inherently is a culture of excess out in the wild — it’s always nice to give back. Sure, you can donate money directly to conservation groups, but you could also support properties that already strive to preserve the animals and wilderness of the regions where they’re established.

save the rhino trustImage Credit: Save The Rhino Trust Namibia

For example, Desert Rhino Camp in the Palmweg concession of Namibia, is a collaboration of safari operator Wilderness Safaris and the Save the Rhino Trust (SRT). It’s the base of operations for rhino tracking tours, where guests are led in vehicles and on foot to encounter the elusive and endangered black rhinoceros — a species whose population has been decimated over the decades from illegal poaching. When the tours are over and you’re sipping a gin and tonic on the porch of your canvas cottage, the SRT continues to dedicate itself to the protection of the rhinos and their habitat.

africat cheetahImage Credit: AfriCat Foundation

With a customized safari through Namibia by outfitter CW Safaris, you can drive just a couple hundred miles away to Okonjima, home of AfriCat Foundation, which strives to work with local farming communities in their rehabilitation programs for misplaced cheetahs, leopards, and wild dogs. They also sponsor school trips to educate future generations on the importance of conservation. Guests can visit the big felines as they are reconditioned to their natural environment by day, while sleeping in camps with luxury amenities by night.

mustang monumentImage Credit: Mustang Monument Wild Horse Eco-Resort

Meanwhile in Nevada, a similar effort is being done by the folks at the Mustang Monument Wild Horse Eco-Resort, which is not just a place where you can camp in a tipi fitted with hardwood floors and cosy beds. Founder Madeleine Pickens and her team of cowboys are committed to the Saving America’s Mustangs foundation, which aims to protect the mere thousands of wild mustangs left in America with a permanent preserve for them to roam free.

Precious ecosystems are also being supported by glamping destinations. The folks at EcoCamp Patagonia, in Chile’s Torres del Paine National Park, are committed to sustainability with green energy practices in conjunction with their inventive design of sustainable — and comfortable — dome tents. They share their innovations with the Corporacion Fomento & Producción (CORFO), so that other local businesses can follow suit in this region increasingly affected by climate change.

maasai wilderness cons trustImage Credit: Maasai Wilderness Conservation Trust

At Kenya’s Camp Ya Kanzi, in Hemingway’s “Green Hills of Africa,” the Maasai Wilderness Conservation Trust (MWCT) works with Maasai leaders to educate the local communities on best practices to co-exist with wild animals, and to maintain their ecosystem wisely. While the MWCT USA office president and acclaimed actor Edward Norton may not be there during your stay, you can rest assured — in tented cottages so luxurious that they even have bidets — that part of the money you spend goes to their conservation efforts. After all, the environment, and the indigenous animals within, are the real celebrities in these parts.

Tongabezi…The Best of Victoria Falls

The world’s largest waterfall extends 5,604 feet and crashes into the Zambezi River casting a mist that can be felt for 30 miles…but to unlock the true wonder of Victoria Falls, a stay at Tongabezi Lodge is key. As the first hotel to be built on the upper banks of Zambia’s Zambezi river, Tongabezi has the ultimate location, connections, and expertise to satisfy your every glamping desire.

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Founders Ben and Vanessa Parker built the eco-lodge to embrace the area’s African roots and wild environment…without straying too far from Western comforts. This is the base camp for their slew of river activities and where we met for our first culinary adventure.

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At the dock, a wooden boat greeted us with a perfectly set table for two. We savored every course as we wound our way up the lively Zambezi.

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The spiced lamb kebabs with sauteed okra and tomato (grown in Tongabezi’s very own garden) had the most incredible flavor…a trend that continued with every meal. For a little post-lunch entertainment we coasted by a family of hippos having an afternoon dip.

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Escorted by our valet Niambe (all guests have a personal attendant throughout the course of their stay…talk about luxury!), we were presented with two fantastic suites to choose from. One was a gorgeous room directly on the river with nothing but screens keeping you from the sounds and breezes of the Zambezi. The second choice was the “Nut House,” a thatch-roof cottage tucked up on the hill with views out to the river and an infinity plunge pool outside. Both amazing, but who says no to a private pool?

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Here is the aqua beauty that won us over, complete with to-die-for views of the wildlife teaming along the riverbank. We swam in the heat of the day and the twinkle of the stars.

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Inside our suite, the room was the epitome of African luxury. A staircase brought us down past our bar area to the fireplace lounge area, and then to our grand four-poster bed. The vibrant Zambian textiles, antique accents, and modern amenities made us want move in.

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In the afternoon we went on safari at the nearby Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park (which means “The Smoke that Thunders,” the Tonga name for the falls). There we saw giraffe, zebra, warthogs, elephants, baboons…but this hippo sighting? It was at dinner! We were on the patio a few feet above the riverbanks and heard the sound of a big mouth chopping and snarfing; we flashed our light and low and behold it was an adolescent hippo a few yards from our table! You’d think with the light he might scurry away, but no, he ate right alongside us throughout our meal and even joined us for some after-dinner drinks.

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Tongabezi is a true pioneer in eco-tourism throughout the region and the best example of that is Livingstone Island. They have exclusive access to this island which literally hangs over the edge of the world’s largest waterfall, providing views that will make your stomach drop and your heart soar. For our full experience at Livingstone Island and the National Park of Victoria Falls, see our Glamping review of their neighboring property Sindabezi Island Camp.

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When it comes to ambiance and romance, Tongabezi left us love-struck. Chilled wine awaited us in the room each evening, bubble baths drawn before dinner, hot cocoa and blankets for morning boat rides, and countless other thoughtful touches popped up at every turn. But the gesture that really gave them top billing in our hearts was our dinner on the Sampan. Check out this video clip and imagine sitting with your partner on a floating dining room in the middle of the Zambezi river, enjoying dinner under the glow of lanterns and moonlight, accompanied by the sounds of an African choir growing louder and more beautiful as they row towards you in a canoe. It will take your breath away.

Most mornings we woke up early to take advantage of the cool air and to watch the animals start their day. While out for a sunrise boat ride and fishing adventure, we saw a bit of rustling on the river bank and spotted this feisty pair of elephants having a drink. Press play to see this powerful encounter.

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A visit to Tongabezi wouldn’t be complete without at stop at their trust school, Tujatane. It started in 1996 as a primary school for the owner and staff’s children, but with fantastic success it now serves nearly 200 community youth. We took a tour with the principal and he proudly regaled us with stories of students that had gone on to be doctors, pilots, and leaders in their community. Amazingly the school is run entirely on donations and proceeds from the gift shop!

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Staying a few nights at Tongabezi and a couple nights at their sister camp Sindabezi was the perfect way to experience the Zambezi River and Victoria Falls. The same river and safari activities are available from both properties –so regardless if you want the excitement of camp or the creature comforts of the hotel, you don’t have to compromise any adventures by day.

Anne and Mike Howard are creators of the around-the-world honeymoon blog HoneyTrek.com and Long Term Travel Coaches for anyone looking to travel the world safely, affordably and off the beaten path. You can follow them on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter at @HoneyTrek.