Sindabezi Island: Above and Beyond Victoria Falls

To soak up the world’s largest waterfall, the rush of the Zambezi river, and southern Zambia’s wild environs, we knew Sindabezi Island was the place to hang our bucket hat. This private river isle was gently developed by Tongabezi, the oldest and most prestigious eco-lodge above the falls, to further immerse its guests in the beauty of the Zambezi. Named by Fodor’s as one of the top ten eco-lodges on the African continent, Sindabezi is adventure at its most luxurious.

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There are only five villas on the island so each one feels completely secluded in nature. The existing landscape was their inspiration to their construction rather than an impediment. Their use of natural thatch roofs and mangrove walls barely scratch the surface of how they incorporate nature into their designs, but my favorite example is the pathways. A massive fallen tree laid right in the middle of walkway to our room but instead of chopping it up, they built a set of stairs up and over the trunk. Respect.

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As you can see, the entire front of our villa is open to the wilds of the Zambezi. From our bed we could watch the monkeys play in the trees, see the birds flutter from limb to limb, and hear the hippos honking nearby

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Each night at sunset the island’s ten guests gather by the fire for drinks and hors d’oeuvres. Chatting over wine in the comfort of our cushy sofas and chairs, before and after dinner, we were all great friends by the end of the night.

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The next day the Sindabezi team had planned a river and wildlife extravaganza for us. First up, a sunrise sail on the river. Watching kingfishers swooping through the air, baboons playing on the sandy banks, and hippos returning from their night of foraging, we sipped our coffee before heading back to the lodge for a hearty breakfast. Then before we knew it, we were back out on the river for a kayak and fishing trip where we caught a fierce tiger fish!

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Finishing our full morning on the river, we docked at one of the river islets for lunch. We would have been happy if our guide prepared a picnic blanket and sandwiches but to our amazement Sindabezi had sent a chef and waiter ahead to surprise us with a proper sit-down meal! A beautifully set table was prepared with multiple courses and wine pairings for an unforgettable dining experience.

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We returned to our villa and were excited for some time in our tub. Set under the shade and seclusion of the trees, the porcelain claw-foot tub was the most relaxing place to soak in the sounds of the river.

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After our bubble bath, we went to the lounge to relax with a cocktail before dinner. This central space is used to share bountiful meals or to curl up on the sofa with a book or a board game. The collection of antiques and thoughtful accents makes every space on the island a treat.

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The next day the main event was upon us: Victoria Falls. At 354-feet high with a single stream of water running 5, 604-feet wide, Victoria Falls is considered to be the largest waterfall in the world. Our Sindabezi guide gave us a very informative tour on the geology and history of the magnificent falls and then he handed us two rubber rain coats. The path opposite the falls turned out to be the world’s greatest natural water park! We giggled and squealed like school kids as we got more and more drenched catching glimpses of the cascades and rainbows.

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An extra perk of staying at Tongabezi and Sindabezi is that they have exclusive access to the legendary Livingstone Island, which literally sits on the edge of the falls with jaw- and stomach-dropping views. There only a handful of boat trips to the island each day but we absolutely recommend taking the last ride and high-tea session to catch the falls at sunset.

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What a stay! On our final morning, eating our breakfast of coconut-stuffed french toast and watching for hippos in the pools below, we thought to ourselves… “It doesn’t get more wild and luxurious than this.”

Glamping Review: Safari West

Since the very early stages of our courting, my wife and I have talked openly about a shared dream to take an African safari. Elephants! Rhinoceros! Giraffes! All of these animals are critters we have hoped to see in the wild. With two children, however, we likely can’t afford to schlep the kids. And we wouldn’t want to leave them home for such a fantastic adventure.

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Naturally, then, we’ve looked far and wide for similar wildlife-oriented experiences here at home. It turns out one of them is around the proverbial corner from our house in Sonoma County, California: Safari West. The 400-acre preserve is home to nearly 700 species of animals, including Grant’s zebras, ring-tailed lemurs, and southern white rhinoceros, to name a few. The place also has 30 canvas-walled tent cabins—imported from Africa, of course—in which visitors can spend the night.

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One night this spring, my wife and I did just that. Our cabin—Cabin 19—overlooked the giraffe enclosure; from our deck, where we drank a bottle of local Zinfandel after check-in, we watched the animals cavort with wildebeests and frolic with each other, just few neck-lengths away. Inside the tent’s pale green canvas walls, décor was rustic but elegant, a motif I like to consider bush chic. Two of the tables were hand-hewn from pieces of a felled tree trunk. Overhead lights were made from tree branches. The lampshade had metal silhouettes of animals from the Serengeti. The cabin had two double beds (with electric blankets), a space heater, and an armoire with umbrellas and flashlights. There also was a small-but-spotless private bathroom, which had a copper basin and hot water.

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On the night we stayed, we could have taken the car into Santa Rosa for an upscale meal. Instead, we opted to stay on-property and eat at the Savannah Café, a low-lying building that doubles as the mess hall for resort guests. Chefs cooked up a buffet-style ranch barbecue, complete with chicken, corn, beans and more. After an hour, we were so stuffed that we grabbed our flashlights and headed back to the cabin, where we snuggled down on a comfy bed beneath an electric blanket, and dozed off to the cacophonous cackles of flamingoes—nature’s white noise.

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The following morning, we awoke to the same flamingoes bright and early, and wandered down the hill to the Café for a continental breakfast that comprised bagels, fresh fruit and coffee. Fueled for the day, walked around a back portion of the park in which monkeys and cheetahs and other animals (including a porcupine) are sequestered in separate habitats. My wife, an anthropologist, spent much of the time regaling me with details about the monkeys. Her tutorial made the experience significantly more interesting.

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Around 10 a.m., we returned to the area in front of the Café and boarded double-decker, open-air Jeep-like vehicles for a “safari” around the property.  Over the next 2.5 hours, our vehicle sputtered up and over the back hills of Sonoma County, inching past gazelles, oryx, antelopes, cape buffalo and other critters. A Safari West naturalist guided our trip, pointing out distinguishing characteristics on each of the animals as we drove by. I found the naturalist helpful—just not as helpful as my own wife.

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The tour ended just before lunchtime, and we had enough time to hike back to the cabin and retrieve our belongings before check-out. That evening, on the drive home, my wife and I struggled to summarize our experience overnight at Safari West. No, we agreed, it wasn’t luxury living on the Serengeti. But it sure came close.

Asia Sees Expansion of Glamping Choices

What kind of Asia glamping adventure do you want to have? The choices are as wide and varied as the continent itself, from island paradise retreats to mountains, plains and jungle. You are limited only by your imagination- and possibly not by that, either.

ISLANDS: MALDIVES AND THAILAND

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Many Asian properties are taking advantage of their stunning white sand beaches to create glamping island retreats, and it should come as no surprise that island properties command the highest prices. At the top of the list is the archipelago of Maldives, already one of the most exquisite vacation spots in the world. Soneva Fushi Resort and Taj Exotica Resort and Spa are top tier glamping resorts that offer unmatched dramatic views combined with world-class sophistication in harmony with nature.

Still offering plenty of drama and sophistication are Vivanta Coral Reef by Taj and Baros which may be considered somewhat more affordable ($700 and $580 per night, respectively) than their Maldives neighbors, yet still offer the discerning glamper all they might expect.

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Thailand island hideaways such as Soneva Kiri  and Moon Shadow (Winner of Best Villa Architectural Design Award 2013) offer the best in luxury matched with breathtaking seaside views.

RIVER GLAMPING, ASIAN STYLE

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Inland vacation spots may cost less, but that doesn’t mean they’re any less exotic. Take for instance Four Rivers Floating Lodge in Cambodia on the Tatai River, highway to the Southeast Asia’s largest coastal mangrove.

Muang La Resort in Laos sits next to a tranquil river with a hot spring, and offers luxury in a secluded setting.

Bagan Lodge near the Irrawaddy River in Myanmar is on the edge of on of the world’s greatest “archaeological marvels.” According to Wikipedia, “10,000 Buddhist temples, pagodas and monasteries were constructed in the Bagan plains alone, of which the remains of over 2200 temples and pagodas still survive to the present day.”

YURT CAMPING

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Adventure seekers will be happy to know that Asia has more than relaxing beach resorts and sleepy secluded river retreats, and will choose to venture to the interior of the continent.

After visiting the Flaming Cliffs or riding a Bactrian camel in the Gobi Desert of Mongolia, you can return to a luxurious yurt at the Three Camel Lodge.

For a more down to earth experience, stay with an authentic local nomadic family at At-Bashi Yurt Camp in Kyrgystan near the China border, experiencing river valleys, mountains and glaciers.

HIGH UP PERCHES

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You may stay in the trees if that’s what you please, and Japamala Resort in Malaysia may just be your thing. Stay in a chalet or jungle canopy tree house at this “eco-luxe resort” and enjoy this “fashionably rustic boutique resort known for intimacy between man and nature.”

Perched among dramatic rock formations in view of a mountain range and beach are the Hill Top Pool Villas of Six Senses Ninh Van Bay of South Central Vietnam. The villas are set back in the mountainside accessible by wooden private walkways each with a private plunge pool.

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For the ultimate wildlife adventure at a moderate price ($250/night) you can travel to Nepal’s Karnali Lodge, one of two lodges owned by Tiger Tops, which sits right on the edge of Bardia National Park, Nepal’s largest wilderness area, where you are promised “the exhilaration of a raw encounter with jungle wildlife. Observe tigers, rhinos, elephants, crocodiles, leopards and deer all in their natural habitat on a Tiger Tops guided jungle safari.”